In Alicante not everything is what it seems, at least not at first glance. And, under that appearance of a coastal city, treasures are hidden, of greater or lesser size, that contain stories that prescribe the character of the city. Only in this way could the name of the famous May 25 square, behind the imposing municipal market, or even that of the city itself, be explained, related to—according to several theories— Mount Benacantil (about 170 meters above sea level), the hill that dominates the coast.
Alicante makes it easy for travelers who want to visit it; It is well connected by land, sea and air. The most populated city on the Costa Blanca requires a visit of several days, but in 24 hours you can also discover a curious version that mixes the past and present of Alicante to whet your appetite.
11.00 An unavoidable monument to see and visit
You cannot know Alicante without visiting one of its most characteristic monuments: the Santa Barbara Castle (1). Located at the top of Mount Benacantil, this fortress can be seen from almost any point in the city, and once up, it allows you to contemplate the bay of Alicante and the neighboring towns of the Costa Blanca. Its symbolism goes back in time, it is believed that it was this mountain that gave its name to the city (from the Greek Akra Leuke, which means white promontory). With the Romans, the name would evolve to Lucentum or Leukante, and the Arabs would call it Al-Kalant. Due to its rocky shape, reminiscent of a face, Mount Benacantil is affectionately known—by legends—as “the face of the Moor.”
Although Santa Bárbara was one of the most important medieval castles in Spain, archaeological remains have been found from the Bronze Age (between 1700 and 1100 BC), Iberian and Roman. Its current composition shows three enclosures from three different periods: the highest and oldest remains of the fortress, where the Torre del Homenaje is located, date mostly from the 14th century; Further down, in the intermediate enclosure, are the rooms that were built in the 16th century, such as the Hall of Philip II, the Guard Corps, the Parade Ground and the Queen's Baluarte; The most recent extension, from the 18th century, is the Revellín del Bon Repós, and is located at the bottom.
There are several ways to visit the fortress: on buses that leave from the promenade, by taxi (never by private car because you cannot park inside the complex), through the elevator located on Juan Bautista Lafora Avenue, on the beach. Postiguet or on foot from the sandy beach itself, or from the oldest neighborhood of the city, Santa Cruz.
13.00 Around the Santa Cruz neighborhood and a vermouth
The most interesting area of the old town is its upper part, a network of narrow, steep streets that, in many cases, are negotiated with stairs. The most characteristic thing about this place are the homes: low houses with white walls dotted with flowers that decorate and refresh the atmosphere. A scene that becomes more impressive during the May Crosses festival (this year, from April 29 to May 5). Walking through this small town with a dozen streets at the foot of the Santa Bárbara castle, you reach the Santa Cruz hermitage. (2)built in the 18th century.
![One of the steep streets of the Santa Cruz neighborhood, in Alicante.](https://imagenes.elpais.com/resizer/_EJj7LbeGThRuwUSyNwIPVadqxI=/414x0/cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/prisa/G2YZHSX2HNATFN5LC3K63KZEYQ.jpg)
Going down from the Santa Cruz neighborhood, just a five-minute walk away, you will find another architectural gem, in this case Valencian modernism from the beginning of the 20th century. The Central Market of Alicante (3) It is the place to find the best fresh products of the earth —as the province of Alicante or Valencia is popularly known—, but it is also an emblematic site, linked to one of the most atrocious events that have taken place in the city. On the morning of May 25, 1938, nine Savoia aircraft from the Italian air force, which supported the rebel army and had set up its base of operations on the island of Mallorca, burst into the Alicante sky bombing the city. The market was one of the buildings where the most projectiles fell, leaving more than 300 dead and a thousand injured. For this reason, the square in which the rear façade of the building lies is called May 25. (4).
![Facade of the Alicante Central Market building.](https://imagenes.elpais.com/resizer/tkV4ksEVaiJ0-Ju0glbBRV5IFCo=/414x0/cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/prisa/IE7LKUMJCZDGDAALNWJBLFGVZI.jpg)
Today this is a pleasant urban space, full of trees and with several bars with terraces where you can sit and rest after the walk. Before eating, you can order an Alicante vermouth, made with local wines. The designation of origin that protects those produced in Alicante can boast of producing excellent wines, some like fondillón, the favorite of the Sun King himself, Louis XIV, as the chronicles of the time told.
15.00 To eat, rice (not paella)
The Mediterranean region, specifically Alicante, can boast of having excellent sea, mountain and garden cuisine, and a place to taste this cuisine at any time of the day is the Gravina bar (5), at number 4 of the street of the same name. A family business, run by Conchi Sanz and Álex Belda, mother and son, who never lack diners. The recipe for your success? Fresh products of the day that are purchased at the municipal market.
However, if Alicante residents are proud of something, it is their rice dishes (be careful, not paella!). Rice in Alicante is religion. So much so that many of the city's restaurants have been grouped under the registered trademark Alicante Ciudad del Arroz. And there are up to 300 varieties: from Alicante rice – purely with seafood and to which chicken is added – to banda rice with shrimp tail and squid, or anchovy with spinach, honeyed rice with tuna belly red, black rice, the baked recipe or the of the senyoret. One of these Alicante rice cathedrals is the Pis Pas restaurant (6)in the Plaza de Luceros.
![General Marvá Avenue in Alicante, with the fountain in Plaza de Luceros.](https://imagenes.elpais.com/resizer/moy74cLww1UrIBKYNVooM23x9XA=/414x0/cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/prisa/TAC4DKVCUJBJDGV4OLJT4QRGY4.jpg)
17.00 A reference and graffiti bookstore from the 18th century
Not far from this emblematic square, where four main arteries converge – General Marvá Avenue, Federico Soto Avenue, Alfonso el Sabio Avenue and the Estación Avenue – is located the 80 worlds bookstore (7), a reference place for book lovers. Its well-deserved fame for four decades is due to the work of its first owner, Fernando Linde, who transferred it in 2018 to other great cultural enthusiasts, Sara J. Trigueros, Carmen Juan, Ralph del Valle and Marina Vicente, who have continued with his legacy. This is the place to purchase a book under extraordinary recommendations from its booksellers, attend presentations, recitals, storytelling, workshops… An agenda of activities so rich that it earned them the Award for Best Cultural Bookstore in Spain in 2019, awarded by the Spanish Confederation of Guilds and Associations of Booksellers (Cegal).
Back in the historic center, a must-see is the Town Hall Square (8)dominated by the building that today houses the city council (9), an imposing baroque palace from the 18th century. Inside the building, the Blue Room stands out, the Royal Chamber of Isabel II with a side chapel in which today it is allowed to celebrate mass after a pontifical bull signed by Pope Pius VI. Another curious detail of this palace is the discovery of graffiti, but not current artistic expressions, but manifestations engraved or drawn with charcoal or paint on the walls made more than 300 years ago, and which are also known by this name. In the Archaeological Museum of Alicante (MARQ) (10) You can consult a catalog with the graffiti that has been located on various public and private buildings in the city.
Looking at the town hall, on the left, is the Ansaldo portico (eleven)which connects Rafael Altamira Street with co-cathedral of San Nicolás de Bari (12), another of Alicante's architectural jewels. From 1616, it was built on the remains of an old mosque following the precepts of the Herrerian Renaissance style, maintaining an austere exterior. Its interior, however, has a late Gothic cloister of a medieval temple loaded with ornamentation.
![Dome of the co-cathedral of San Nicolás de Bari, in Alicante.](https://imagenes.elpais.com/resizer/qLe0H47ZJq5CU5pGMeWFNoQf4qY=/414x0/cloudfront-eu-central-1.images.arcpublishing.com/prisa/ZHGLRC4KSFBADMCJAH5WYF7IDE.jpg)
20.00 Non-religious temples to end the day
Not far from Plaza 25 de Mayo stands another temple, not religious, but musical. The Jendrix Rock Bar (13) He is on his way to turning 30 years old. And this place, which opened its doors in the mid-nineties in honor of the guitar virtuoso Jimi Hendrix, continues to be a classic of the Alicante nightlife and usually schedules concerts by local bands and the occasional national one. Just 100 meters away is another legendary live music venue: the Stereo (14), with a larger capacity for concerts, where there is also space for improvisation sessions, a beer club and other types of events. On Fridays and Saturdays they open at dawn for those who want to make the most of their visit to Alicante.
Leaving the Mediterranean coast without having a horchata can be considered a sin. This tigernut drink is another symbol of Alicante and a place of worship to taste it is The Blue Horchatería (fifteen), at number 38 Calderón de la Barca street, which can boast of having been open for 82 years. Such is their success that they only open for six months a year, from May to September.
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