Mountain climbing | Lotta Hintsa opened up about the “macho culture” of mountaineering – Now Veikka Gustafsson and Anni Penttilä are talking

“Sad and sad. No one should have to experience something like that”, who has climbed Mount Everest three times Veikka Gustafsson says.

The former professional mountaineer is upset Lotta Hintsan on behalf of.

Hintsa told the American newspaper New York Times in the article having experienced sexual harassment in the mountains. Hintsa and another mountaineer, a doctor April Leonardo spoke in an interview with the mountain climbing superstar Nirmal Purjan of pushy behavior and unwanted touching.

“Of course, the main idea is that even rotten apples can fit in the basket,” says Gustafsson, referring to Purja.

However, Gustafsson is saddened by the talk that harassment experienced by women is part of the culture of mountain climbing. In his active career, he has never come across anything similar.

“It’s sad if the world has become such that you can talk about it as part of the culture.”

“I have climbed in groups with men and women. Things have worked perfectly, and gender has never mattered.”

Mountaineer Anni Penttilä is also shocked by Hintsa’s experiences.

“Shocking and sad. Both men and women should be able to be safe both at work and in the mountains,” says Penttilä.

“That’s not acceptable under any circumstances.”

Penttilä, 30, who conquered Mount Everest in 2021, feels that he has been treated as a team member of equal value to other climbers.

“I am in a fortunate position that nothing has happened to me. It is still sad that this has happened [kuin mitä Hintsa kertoi]”.

Hintsa said that he had also experienced teasing and belittling during his trips, as well as humid closing parties at base camps. He said he locked the zipper of his tent with an egg lock in case of uninvited guests.

Penttilä has not experienced or observed similar behavior on his own trips.

“I’m quite lucky that I’ve avoided something like that.”

Finland Gustafsson, the only mountaineer who has reached all peaks over 8,000 meters high, remembers an incident from the 1990s, when the women of an expedition in Pakistan had to disguise themselves as men when they arrived in a village. In the local culture, the status of women was non-existent.

“During two days, we didn’t see any women because the men had ordered the women inside and to stay there.”

The 56-year-old Gustafsson reminds us that there are not necessarily the same climbers on the mountains as there were in his time. According to Gustafsson, the commercialization of mountain climbing may play a role in the “macho culture” experienced by Hintsa.

“Right there [Himalajalla] there are mainly so-called commercial climbers who do not have the same climbing background as in the old days,” says Gustafsson.

“It could very well be that commercialism has changed that culture,” Penttiläkin thinks.

Veikka Gustafsson and Anni Penttilä say that the dynamics of base camps and expeditions depends on what kind of expedition is put together.

“If you and I were to go on a trip together with the money we collected ourselves and organize everything ourselves, the dynamics would change compared to if we just slapped the money on the counter and went on a commercial expedition,” says Gustafsson.

“On a commercial trip, you never know who is coming.”

Penttilä agrees with Gustafsson’s view, even though he has been climbing with “double-tons” since 2021 also as a member of commercial expeditions.

However, he reminds us that Mount Everest itself also plays a big role in what the activities at the base camp look like.

“When we climbed Makalu last spring, there were 40 climbers. It makes a difference whether there are 400 or 40 people climbing the mountain.”

Gustafsson has never met Purja himself, but says he appreciates the Nepali climber’s performance. In general, however, Gustafsson does not like the fact that great performances are done in mountaineering just for the sake of records and publicity value.

Former special forces soldier Purja, 40, climbed all mountains over 8,000 meters high in six months and six days in 2019.

“After all, he is physically very tough. Still, it’s already starting to have a bit of circus fun features.”

Penttilä has met Purja in passing at Mount Everest base camp. However, he does not know the man personally.

“He is very influential in the world of mountaineering,” says Penttilä.

Nirmal Purja is a real superstar in Nepal, sponsored by Red Bull and Nike, among others.