If there is something that unites the Spanish more than the national team, it is shrimp tortillas, a fried lace that forms part of the select club of the most democratic dishes in our country. And the truth is that no one has yet been known to confess some kind of aversion to them and, if such a person exists, they are exiled along with that lonely dentist who does not recommend sugar-free chewing gum.
There is no mystery to their composition: chickpea flour, shrimp and parsley are the ingredients that lead you to heaven. Given this success of simplicity, there are many who claim their origin and, although it is difficult to know which place first began to make them, their current lightened and somewhat finer recipe emerged in Venta Vargas at the beginning of the 20th century. The gastronomic journalist Pepe Monforte and author of the blog Things to Eatpoints out that “the person who completely changed the concept of the dish and we can say that she is the inventor of the current shrimp omelette is the cook María Picardo from Venta Vargas, who changed the composition of the flours in the dish and managed to make them fine and crunchy.” One of her secrets was to replace cold water with a siphon and, years later, with sparkling water: several generations dedicated to perfecting the recipe until leaving us the culinary jewel that can be enjoyed today.
Now that we are clear that his accent is from Cadiz, it is time to shed some light on his origin. According to the gastronomic historian Manuel Ruiz Torresits origin could be with the Genoese who arrived in Cadiz in the middle of the 13th century. “They made different recipes with flour and water. One of them was some fritters or pancakes that were called friscieu and were made with vegetables, cod or fish waste. They were quickly accepted because in Cadiz they were already frying battered ingredients in a kind of porridge, talvinasof Andalusian heritage”. But while in these they breaded whole pieces, the Genoese did it with the ingredients finely chopped, thrown into the pan by the spoonful. “At some point, shrimp were added, very abundant in the salt flats of the Bay of Cadiz. We believe it must have been around the 16th century”.
Making a list of the best shrimp tortillas is quite a feat that can lead us to exile and, although there is a consensus for the most part, it is possible that many of its fans are not satisfied. Beyond the claim of their origin, shrimp tortillas belong to no one and belong to everyone: whatever destination you choose to eat them, prepare to reach ecstasy with any of these proposals.
The jewel in the crown of the El Faro Restaurant in Cadiz
El Faro has been revalidating its title of the best shrimp tortillas for years. Thin, crispy, medium-sized and tasty, they have everything to convince you to endure the long queues that form at the bar of their restaurant where, in addition, anything you choose from the menu will be a safe bet. The person responsible for leaving there with a smile from ear to ear is Mario Jiménez, grandson of the founder, who 60 years later continues the legacy, alternating tradition with creativity. Price: 2.70 euros per unit.
The Lighthouse Restaurant in Cadiz: c/ San Félix, 15. Cádiz. Tel. 956 211 068. Map.
The ones that started it all, from Venta de Vargas
Many theories trace the beginnings of shrimp tortillas to this restaurant on the outskirts of San Fernando, where, by the way, Camarón also began singing (coincidence? I don’t think so). singer The Cadiz native was a visionary and we don’t know if he ended up there because of these fried delicacies, but there’s the thing. It is said that they were the first to perfect the recipe to make them finer and crispier – the secret of excellence according to experts – and all for a practical reason: “in a tavern, it was not in the interest of customers to be satisfied with this starter and not order any more dishes,” says Ruiz Torres. Price: 11 euros for a serving of eight units.
Restaurant Venta de Vargas: pl. Juan Vargas s/n. San Fernando, Cadiz. Tel. 956 881 622. Map.
XXL size, from Taberna Casa Manteca
Just a few metres from El Faro is this legendary – and increasingly touristy – bullfighting tavern in Cádiz that is expanding thanks to its success (and that of its chicharrón). At Casa Manteca we find them large, enormous, they may look like they are from outer space, but the best thing is that they combine their sheet size with a correct delicacy. Here they are served on brown paper, without parsley and loaded to the top with shrimp, a good portion ready to knock out even the hungriest of people. Take advantage of sharing them and you will have room for other delicacies from the place. Price: 2.50 euros per unit.
Manteca House Tavern: c/ Corralon de los Carros, 66. Cadiz. Tel. 956 213 603. Map.
The Mexican version, from Villanos Bistró Canalla
Shrimp tortillas have not been the object -or victim, depending on how you look at it- of many alterations or modifications, but there are some places that have dared to pervert the original recipe. Among those that have done so successfully, it is worth highlighting the proposal of Juanpe Medina, who has used the shrimp tortilla as a base to make a taco a la gaditana to which, to make matters worse, he adds sea anemones, guacamole, pico de gallo, ají panca emulsion and wakame seaweed. Get out of your tortilla comfort zone with this explosion of flavours in your mouth. Price: two tacos for 12 euros.
Villains Bistro Canalla: Av. Almilcar Barca, 35. Cadiz. Tel. 856 075 944. Map.
The most street-wise, from Churrería La Guapa
This fryer has been making shrimp tortillas for years, as well as its famous churros that are already an icon of the city. In this case, they are a little thicker and fluffier, like fritters, designed more to be taken away without breaking. The problem? They are only served during Carnival, because there is nothing more typical at that time than queuing up at their stand to get a box of this delicacy – here they are served in brown paper, as the God of Frying commands. A classic pilgrimage on those days, since you can take the boxes of tortillas wherever the party takes you. Price: to be consulted.
Churreria La Guapa: Pl. Libertad 1. Cadiz. Tel. 645 088 239. Map.
The round ones, from Bar Mantecoso
This establishment in Barbate, one of the journalist’s favourites, is a great unknown. Pepe Monfortewhich are prepared here in round shapes and with lots of shrimp. “The flour is only used to bind these small shellfish together. They are a surprise both in texture and flavour. One more demonstration that creative gastronomy can also be made in the most humble kitchens.” Price: five euros for a serving of two units.
Bar Mantecoso: C. Ancha 78. Barbate (Cádiz). Tel. 625 529 660. Map.
A different presentation at Peña La Estrella
If you like this dish just the way it is but are bored of the same old story, you can take a slightly different approach at La Estrella, where they serve the shrimp omelette as a bed for a sea anemone croquette. The base is a bit thicker and more consistent, without being too greasy: a two-for-one of good fried food. Price: 2.50 euros per unit.
Bar La Estrella 1905: Pl. Candelaria 7. Cadiz. Tel. 685 822 029. Map.
The nostalgic ones, from Restaurante Willy
The resistance to the modern, lighter tortilla is found in the Campo de Gibraltar area. Here they are served in the old style, abuñueladas and consistent. The historian Manuel Ruiz highlights them because “it is history on a plate, nothing less; a relic in danger of extinction due to the success of its own evolution, which tells us what this recipe was like in its origins. Dishes to satisfy you, which the witchcraft of traditional cooking has turned into a popular luxury.” Price: 2.50 euros per unit.
Willy’s Restaurant: Av. Andalucia 77-79-81. Palmones (Cadiz). Tel. 956 677 900. Map.
The ones with views included, from Cantina de Titi (El Bartolo)
The writer from Cadiz Enrique Montiel In this former fishermen’s warehouse with views of the bay, you will find your favourite place to enjoy a good portion of tortillas. “Literally on the seashore, we can enjoy a fish freshly caught in the bay, that is, right in front of us, as if we were saying, alive. While the sun sinks, the distant sea returns the sea’s last glow, like a glowing ember in the bay. An unforgettable luminous apotheosis,” says Montiel. Because the sight is also nourished. Price: 12 euros per serving
Titi’s Tavern (El Bartolo): Caseria Beach, San Fernando (Cadiz). Tel. 686 734 966. Map.
‘Bonus track’: Ángel León’s gourmet version
This article will not be the place where we send you to a three-star Michelin restaurant to eat such a popular dish, but we cannot end this list without briefly mentioning Ángel León’s haute cuisine version for his Aponiente menu. The chef of the sea offers us a delicate lace that seems like it will break just by looking at it, where the shrimp are strategically placed on the omelette, with the parsley in the form of an emulsion. An almost haute couture creation that would make a Chanel dress laugh. Price: to be consulted.
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