Romantic and canal-lined, the Belgian city of Bruges is one of those destinations that you can’t miss. The advantage is that it doesn’t disappoint: serene waterways, green parks, lively markets, miles of cycle paths, art galleries filled with great Flemish primitive gems… and good beer and chocolates, as in the whole country.
Compared to other Belgian cities, touristy Bruges has another advantage: it is easy to get to and has picturesque corners among its narrow streets and canals, beyond those that appear on Instagram. It is the most typical getaway from Brussels, but it is worth spending more than one day to contemplate its charm at dusk, when the cobblestones and water are caressed by the light of the moon and the gas lamps.
A medieval heart: Markt, Burg and the north of Bruges
Surrounded by a canal, the centre of Bruges is located in Markt and Burg, two spectacular squares connected to each other, which are always the first contact with the city. Almost all of Bruges’ medieval attractions are grouped here and there is only one thing to do: wander through its tangle of streets and canals, all of them beautiful, and let yourself be carried away by its magic.
Markt, the market square, is the nerve centre, surrounded by medieval gabled buildings and terraces. Horse-drawn carriages clatter past restaurants with outdoor tables and mobile phone-wielding tourists, under the spectacular Belfort, an imposing tower The 13th century Markt is the symbol of the city. From the top, the views are magnificent and from the bell tower, a manual carillon rings its 47 bells so that they can be heard throughout the city. The Markt has been the centre of the food market since the Middle Ages. It is held every Wednesday and is perfect for shopping. souvenirs gastronomic or indulge yourself, like some delicious waffles.
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On one side of the square, in a neo-Gothic building, the Historium Burgge It is an experience worth leaving the streets for a moment: a multimedia museum-experience that takes us back to 1435, like in a medieval film, with interesting simulations, such as that of the studio of the painter Jan van Eyck.
To the east of the Markt is the other square, the charming Burg, the administrative centre of Bruges for centuries. The Town Hall presides over the complex, and on one side, three formidable interconnected façades dazzle with their golden decoration. Without going too far, if we wander down the beautiful Blinde-Ezelstraat, we find one of those photogenic enclaves that surprises us in Bruges: next to the canal, between the baroque building of the Brugse Vrije and the Town Hall.
Crossing the bridge south of this square, you reach the charming 19th-century Vismarkt building, where fish stalls open almost every morning, and later, craft stalls. Looking for charming corners, we also make a foray into a good local brewery: the microscópopica From Garrein a narrow street between Markt and Burg. Although Burg Square is probably at its quietest and most attractive when night falls.
Shopping in the center
Although the centre of Bruges may sometimes look like a collection of waffle and fries stands, it is worth remembering that it is also an area where people live, do their shopping and go out for a meal or a drink on a daily basis. So it is a perfect place to look for interesting beers, cheeses, sausages, clothes vintage or curiosities of all kinds.
In addition to the Wednesday market at Markt, wandering around you can find places like Diksmuids Boterhuisa classic grocery store that has been selling cheeses, honey, charcuterie and mustard since 1933, decked out in red and white ruffles and filled with sausages hanging from the ceiling. Or as Jam Jam Confituur, where you can delight your eyes with jams and chutneys homemade from this rustic shop with shelves lined to the ceiling with jars and an endless array of flavours, such as fig, pear and walnut or strawberry and champagne.
For chocolate lovers it will be difficult to choose: in Bruges there are about 50 shops dedicated to this product, but only a few make their creations. in situ. Probably the best one is The Chocolate Linewith experimental flavours by master chocolatier Dominique Persoone (there are black olives with tomato, cigar, wasabi… and also more conventional flavours).
When the people of Bruges want to drink something special they go to the Bacchus Corneliuswith about 450 beers and rare varieties guezes (lambic), in addition to jenevers (gins) and liqueurs macerated with elderflower, cranberries and cherries. The most famous: its silky homemade chocolate-based gin.
And between shops, beers and sweets, you can discover curious places like the Jeruzalemkerk, one of the oldest churches in the city, a macabre monument supposedly inspired by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, with a creepy altarpiece covered in skulls. Or like the small church of the Sint-Janshospitaal, the OLV-ter-Potterie: you only have to ring the bell to admire its magnificent pieces from the 15th and 16th centuries and an exuberant baroque ensemble.
Another curious place in the historic center is Huis Ter Beurzebelieved to be the world’s first stock exchange, an elongated 13th-century construction that is now used only for private events.
The well-travelled will enjoy in Reyghere’s Book of Handela well-stocked travel bookstore attached to the original and very old bookstore that the same family has maintained for generation after generation, and whose most illustrious clients include Albert Einstein.
Four curious museums: from lamps to chips
Although Bruges’ charms lie mainly in its streets and canals, it is worth visiting some of its curious museums (especially when it rains, which is frequent). There are some more conventional ones, such as the evocative museum of popular culture Volkskundemuseumorganized around 18 thematic scenes that illustrate what flamenco life was like in the past, including a candy store from the 1930s, a hat workshop or a traditional kitchen. But there are other more original ones, such as the revealing Museum of Domestic Lampswhich displays more than 6,500 objects related to home lighting throughout history: in addition to the history of the humble lamp, it aims to raise awareness about energy consumption and savings.
Two more ideas for Belgian food lovers: Choco-Story, a very entertaining chocolate museum that documents the history of the cocoa bean and ends with the production (and tasting) of freshly made pralines; and the Friesland Museumbecause this city could not be without a museum of fried potatoes. Here the history of the potato is traced from its Inca origins to its jump to Belgian fryers. In its frying shop they boast of serving the best potatoes in the world. And all in a historic building from the 14th century.
Exploring the South: art, canals and artisans
A tour of Bruges is like exploring an open-air museum, especially in the south of the city, where historic buildings, galleries and churches are concentrated. Its Gothic architecture, its willow-lined canals, its market squares… everything is picturesque. And beyond the souvenir shops, just a little browsing will find bars and cafes hidden in side streets, young artisans and a lot of history everywhere.
The jewel of the area is the Groeningemuseuma world-class art gallery, with a special emphasis on the light-drenched works of the Flemish Primitives (there is an exceptional painting by Hieronymus Bosch and fantastic paintings by Van Eiyck and Memling, as well as later artists such as Magritte). Another gem is the Sint-Janshospitaal Museumin the restored chapel of a 12th-century hospital, which houses a variety of medical objects, but is best known for its six masterpieces by Hans Memling. A tip: its pharmacy from 1645, which operated until the end of the 20th century, is worth a look, a beautiful tiled space with rows of jars. Another must-see museum is the Gruuthusemuseuma museum of applied arts housed in a beautifully restored 13th-century building with a romantic touch.
But the best thing here is to discover the parks and canals of the district. You can take a look at the evocative fish market (Vismarkt), where fishmongers have been selling their catch for centuries, or at the Begijnhofa 13th-century beguinage for women, one of Bruges’ greatest charms, with whitewashed buildings surrounding a garden dotted with tall trees and daffodils. Nearby, linked by a small bridge, is Wijngaardplein, a touristy but irresistible square lined with cafés.
Next to the Begijnhof, another of the most beautiful spots in the city is Hof Arents, a picturesque little bridge where the hooves of horses and carriages clatter continuously. This neighborhood is home to the most beautiful green areas in the city, but also parks such as the King Astrid Park and the Minnewaterwell-kept and perfect for walking among flowerbeds, paths and canals. The second is known as the “lake of love” and in medieval times had a dock where ships loaded with wool, wine, spices and silk arrived from remote places and took Flemish fabrics.
Throughout the neighborhood it is easy to find charming places to eat, with tree-lined patios like One Restaurant; with iron stoves, like From Stoepa; or with wonderful views of the canals, like the popular café Café Klein Venetiaat any time of day, with the bell tower overlooking a series of medieval facades. At dusk it is a perfect way to end any day.
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