MIt doesn’t have to have much to do with fashion to assign the following designers directly to their topic: Vivienne Westwood – Punk. Mary Quant – mini skirt. Paco Rabanne – Sci Fi. Issey Miyake – lots of tiny wrinkles. This is how they became famous in the 20th century. When people talk about them, it is often said that they revolutionized fashion. In the past 13 months, Vivienne Westwood, Mary Quant, Paco Rabanne and Issey Miyake have died, aged between 81 and 93. They were preceded by Karl Lagerfeld (2019) and Kenzō Takada (2020).
The 20th century produced many exceptional talents, some of whom are still active. We wish them a long and hard-working life. But it is already clear that we will remember her even after her death. Be it for the way they turned the stiff jacket into a loose suit – like Giorgio Armani (89), for example. Be it how they have anchored sportswear in fashion – like Tommy Hilfiger (72) and Ralph Lauren (83). Be it how they woven their feminist program into clothes decades before the lipstick feminists – like Miuccia Prada (74) and Diane von Fürstenberg (78). Or simply because they are Giorgio Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Miuccia Prada and Diane von Fürstenberg. Or Valentino Garavani (91). Or Jil Sander (79).
Who are these people actually?
The list could be extended. Donatella Versace is only 68, Tom Ford is only 62. But it still shows: fashion has gotten old, or at least the star designers have, i.e. the ones everyone knows. Now one could reply: What about Simon Porte Jacquemus (33)? Or with Olivier Rousteing (37)? Or even with Maximilian Davis (28)? They are all promising talents. Like Raf Simons (55), Pierpaolo Piccioli (56) and Maria Grazia Chiuri (59), who have proven themselves over decades and are now among the most influential designers of all. They too are treated like stars – by some.
However, many others, even if they buy Valentino studded ballet flats and Dior book tote bags, may not even ask themselves who these people actually are who come up with such things. They usually buy the shoes and bags not because they are from Pierpaolo Piccioli or Maria Grazia Chiuri, but because they are from Valentino or Dior. You also buy a Balenciaga sweatshirt because it’s from Balenciaga, not because Demna Gvasalia, who now only goes by Demna, had a brilliant idea.
Pharrell Williams directs men’s collections at Louis Vuitton
In a few decades, will we remember the designers of the early 21st century as we remember the designers of the 20th century today? Is the cult of personality over in fashion, of all things?
That would be remarkable because hardly anything works without a cult of personality. The FAZ magazine is dedicating an entire issue to the topic in this issue. In politics it is said that it increasingly works through people rather than through parties. In sports, the winner-takes-it-all effect is self-explanatory in people like Cristiano Ronaldo or LeBron James. And what are media companies that appear closed to the outside world compared to lone fighter influencers? Even young authors are advised that they need to become a brand as quickly as possible.
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