“Abusing the clean look (I will surely go bald)”, says a user on network. It refers to the trendy hairstyle on TikTok. The social network It is full of tutorials with millions of views of girls who strapless updos are made for clear hair from face. Several dermatologists who are experts in trichology (things related to hair) warn of the risks of this hairstyle: not only can it damage the hair, but it can also cause hair loss in specific areas, such as in front of the ears or on the forehead. To understand the risks of clean lookit is necessary to know how to get itas highlighted Alba Gómez Zubiaur, dermatologist specializing in trichology and hair transplant and director of the Hair Unit of the Ricart Medical Institute (IMR). “Tutorial to get the clean look perfect without lumps”, indicates a video with more than four million views on TikTok and 186,000 likes. In it, a user claims to have discovered an infallible technique. The first step is to iron the roots—if you don’t have straight hair. Afterwards you would have to “wet the hair to work it better”, put it up with a certain tightness and apply fixative products such as hairspray, hair gel or wax to the hairstyle.
Each of these steps carries some risks. Straightening hair with high temperatures can modify the bridges and links between the keratin chains and damage the hair fiber, according to Gómez. In most of the TikTok tutorials, users skip the straightening step and They directly moisten the hair to do the hairstyle. The dermatologist highlights that wet hair is more vulnerable and has a greater risk of frizz and breaking when handled. “Except for curly hair, it is recommended to comb the hair dry and not wet, to avoid causing fractures in the hair fiber,” she adds.
Furthermore, the clean look It involves wearing your hair pulled back. “If this tension on the root of the hair—known as the hair follicle—is maintained over time, it can damage its growth,” explains the trichologist dermatologist. Claudia Bernárdez Guerra. That tight hairstyles can cause damage to the hair roots is something which has been proven with professionals who usually do them, such as gymnasts or dancers.
Alopecia problems
If this type of hairstyle is done regularly, it can cause alopecia. David Saceda Corralo, member of the Spanish Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (AEDV), indicates that this usually happens to those who have a fragile root and a personal predisposition. “It is not a case of occasional hair loss, or cosmetic damage, but rather permanent alopecia. The root can scar,” warns Saceda, a specialist in trichology at the Pedro Jaén Group.
It refers to the so-called tractional alopecia, which is characterized by hair loss due to continuous, prolonged or repetitive tension on the hair. Cristina Pindado, from the Trichology and Hair Transplant Unit of the same group, explains that hair loss usually occurs in specific areas of the scalp. For example, in the preauricular area (the area located just in front of the ear) or the forehead if very tight buns or pigtails are worn.
The risk of suffering from this type of alopecia increases depending on the degree and duration of traction – the use of tight hairstyles -, according to a review of studies published in 2018. Gómez assures that these risks affect both straight and curly hair, as well as thick and fine hair. However, “curly hair will suffer more during straightening, which will require higher temperatures and for longer periods of time.” In addition, fine hair will suffer more than thick hair, since the layers of cuticle and cortex that make it up are thinner and are more exposed to possible damage.
It is difficult to know if a hair is going to be more or less resistant to tractional alopecia. The experts consulted, members of the Spanish Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, explain that if the traction is maintained, it will affect the root in all cases. Saceda gives as an example black people who have thick, dark and curly hair: “They are quite prone to having this problem. But it is not because of the type of hair, but because culturally they wear tense hairstyles, like small braids.” Tractional alopecia affects a third of women of African descent who do traumatic hairstyles for a long period of time.
A risk-free ‘clean look’?
Saceda advises against having this type of hairstyle. “It is better to wear a loose bun or a ponytail that allows the roots to be loose,” he says. Establish how frequently the clean look without putting hair health at risk is complicated. The dermatologist insists on the importance of personal predisposition: “To give you an idea, there are patients who, with a normal ponytail all their lives, develop this problem.”
If you opt for this type of hairstyle, it is best to only do it very occasionally: “You should not wear it more than one day a week, and better for a few hours, releasing the hair as soon as you get home.” “If the scalp hurts when doing the hairstyle, it is better that we change our look,” adds Bernárdez. For a clean look Less damaging to the hair, Gómez advises opting for a low or less tight updo. He also suggests working with dry hair—less prone to breakage. If you use heat, it is better to use a specific hair protector first and avoid bringing the irons close to the hair shaft.
“It is best that the rubber bands used to make the ponytails are thick or use fabric ponytail holders so that they do not cut the hair and do not adjust them too tightly,” adds Pindado, who also advises against abusing sewn-in prostheses and hairstyles such as dreadlocks, African braids or extensions. Fixative products do not have to damage the hair, according to Bernárdez: “It is not necessary to avoid them if we style the hair occasionally.” Of course, the expert insists on the importance of washing your hair correctly with warm water and “good shampoo foam” to remove the product and avoid having it in your hair all night.
If someone who usually has this type of hairstyle finds that they have less hair in the pre-auricular area or that their forehead is widening, it is advisable that they go to a dermatologist who specializes in trichology. “This type of alopecia is reversible if we diagnose and treat it early, but if the diagnosis is late it can lead to irreversible alopecia,” concludes Pindado.
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