After the low-rise pants that have flooded a good part of the stores, the wide hip belts that have just appeared in the latest Miu Miu show and the return of silver ballerinas, we should have seen it coming. Yes, definitely, we should have expected that the bras push-up or the (somewhat shabby) channel came back into our lives, because the signs were there. If we have already reintegrated with greater or lesser success most of the trends that we experienced and carried in the late 90s and early 2000s, it should be no surprise that the one that concerns necklines bursts into the room. In defense of society, it must be said that recent years have not been particularly buoyant for landfills, but once the celebrities come into action, history begins to change. At least, in theory.
Alessandra Ambrosio at the GCDS show at Milan Fashion Week. Photo: Getty
Videos and photos of Kylie Jenner at Paris Fashion Week have gone around the Internet several times, especially in which the smallest of the klan arrived at the always viral Schiaparelli fashion show. On this occasion there was no lion on the chest, but rather the absence of decorations that helped that area shine more than the sequins on the dress itself. There was the magic of the look: seemingly simple lines that sculpted Jenner’s figure and even eclipsed what was intended to be the focal center of the style, the keyhole-shaped opening. And the bra? It doesn’t seem like there is. The curious? Even so, the effect of raising and gathering the chest is visible.
A very similar look was worn days before Olivia Rodrigo at the recent MTV Awards. It was a silver dress made by Ludovic de Saint Sernin in which 150,000 Swarovski crystals sparkled under the spotlights and lights. flashes. But of course: in the equation, there was a V-neckline and, again, a bra with an effect push-up. As happened with the Wonderbra campaigns in the United States that Eva Herzigova starred in, the ‘look me in the eyes… I said in the eyes’, seems to thunder. But it is not the first time that the singer chooses this type of outfit, especially when she resorts to sexy canonical (that is, that in which the traditional male gaze is implicit); A quick review of his Instagram profile confirms this.
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Olivia Rodrigo at the MTV Music Video Awards. Photo: Getty
Something similar happens with Selena Gómez. The interpreter has been dealing with pressure on her appearance for years and in an interview she gave to S Fashion In 2011, he said that he heard that “it was not sexy” daily. It was not the first time, nor would it be the last, that one of the most followed women on Instagram spoke loud and clear about her physique, the subject of public debate on numerous occasions. What’s more, earlier this year, she gave a quote that many people could interpret as liberating: “I’m a little fat right now because I had fun on vacation.” Like that, without further ado. Just like without further ado, she exposes her cleavage in a large percentage of her outfits: it is part of her and she does not hide it. She did it at Paris Fashion Week with two short dresses: one with polka dots signed by Jacquemus and another black with the Versace label. He did it on his last birthday, wearing a red minidress studded with flowers. She did it in afterparty from this year’s MTV, with another intense purple minidress with a corset top that further reinforces the effect push-up of the chest. She has even done it in one of the scenes at the end of Only murders in the building (2021), when a wedding dress with a strapless neckline is worn. Court that seems to have taken a liking to in recent months, because in some photos and videos in which it announced the single which he published at the end of August, also appeared with an orange strapless. Yes, cleavage included.
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Kylie Jenner arriving at Schiaperelli. Photo: Getty
If after this list of outfits you have thought of Lindsay Lohan in Bad Girls (2004) coming down the stairs in a short black and pink strapless dress with her chest well gathered, we don’t blame you; In addition, the pink and white Prada that Scarlett Johansson wore to this year’s Cannes Festival advocated the importance of bras in the fashion trends of these months. The difference is that in the film scene, that gesture, showing part of the chest, had a series of negative readings: femme fatale It is dangerous and, depending on how the script represents it, also hollow. It is enough to remember the professional and public treatment given to Pamela Anderson over the years, another of those women who are now being offered a bit of poetic justice. The narrative told us that showing off and being smart couldn’t go hand in hand, but what if these young celebrities were helping to change the rules of the game? What if they were able to once again polish what was reviled?
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Margot Robbie during the promotion of the movie ‘Barbie’. Photo: Getty
The rise and fall of WonderBra, the flagship firm of push-up bras, is the perfect example of how the relationship of people with breasts with underwear changed: it went from selling a bra every 15 seconds in 1994 (as reported by a study from the University of Michigan Business School) and bill more than 120 million dollars in sales to be difficult to find on Google or even Instagram, where they have just over 25,000 followers. In fact, in 2013 there were few offers to buy DBApparel, the group in which WonderBra was located (along with Dim and Playtex) and although was acquired by HanesBrand in 2014, the company’s profit reports were not at all encouraging, according to the economic newspapers of the time. Because although Kate Moss praised before New York Times Magazine the benefits of the bra to create cleavage even on small breasts or Christina Aguilera stated that “everyone should have a WonderBra”the truth is that those fillers that helped enhance the breasts were no longer exclusive to the brand: any underwear brand had similar models available.
There are some parallels between the popularity swings of the Canadian brand and those of Victoria’s Secret. Now, the brand that classified a type of tall, thin white woman as angel is immersed in an image renewal that, for the most skeptical, seems taken from The Leopard: change everything so that nothing changes. Because Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel, Lily Aldridge, Gigi Hadid, Valentina Sampaio and Hailey Bieber are still there perpetuating the previous aesthetic. Candice Huffine or Jill Kortleve try to add diversity, but it’s not easy to let go of ingrained customs, even when they don’t seem to bring benefits: losses in the company continue and although there are oscillations from one quarter to the next, the data are not particularly optimistic, and not only because we have not recovered from the effect braless of the pandemic. Because, be careful: although it is true that intimate clothing held up well to the pull of those months while general fashion consumption plummeted, the last study carried out by Kantar for MODACC highlights that “it was the underwear category, the one that had suffered the least during the pandemic, the one that in the last quarter [de 2022] “It has suffered a drop in both value and volume.”
Nuria Sarda, creative director of the lingerie and swimwear brand Andres Sarda, states that her clients have not shown a special interest in bras with enhancing padding. “The push-up sells, but it is not the most successful,” she explains. «In recent years, the demand for lighter, more transparent and comfortable garments has increased and I think that currently it would be difficult for the push-up “It is a trend as we knew it years ago: now comfort is a priority, and naturalness.” Of course, he specifies that “that does not mean that at a specific moment we put on a push-up if we feel like it or if it makes a dress look better on us.
That may be (part of) the key to this issue: that the bra has become something decorative, an accessory, and not an essential part of the look. And moreover, one that squeezes (let’s not fool ourselves) certain parts of the breasts. between the movement Free The Nipple which was ubiquitous in 2012, the rise of bralettes in 2016 and the effect of the pandemic on personal styles, voluntarily constraining the body again seems to obey a more visual than social reason.
There is one last factor that should not be lost sight of, and that is false nostalgia. Selena Gomez did grow up with Pamela Anderson running in The Baywatch and with the Victoria’s Secret angels as standard bearers of the push-up, but Kylie Jenner and Olivia Rodrigo are not old enough to have had those references in their adolescence. What does this mean? That allows them to recover aesthetics from those years without the burden of memories; perhaps with less prejudice than those who already experienced it. A sort of blank page that offers them the opportunity to get closer to the push-up not as a bodily imposition intended to unite and lift, to fit with expectations, but as what it should always be: a tool to be used with personal and non-transferable intentions.
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Pamela Anderson in an image taken in 1992. Photo: Getty
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