Golden Globe | “Glamour with a touch of humor” – the designer of Alma Pöyst's suit tells how the gala outfit came about

Actor Alma Pöysti walked the red carpet of the Golden Globe gala in an evening dress by a Finnish designer.

Aki Kaurismäki in a blockbuster movie Dead leaves Pöysti, who performed, was nominated for the best female lead award in the comedies and musicals series. In addition Dead leaves was nominated for Best Foreign Language Film.

Pöyst took the win in the category in the end Emma Stone for his performance in the film Poor Things. Dead leaves in the category took the prize Anatomy of a Fall.

The red silk suit was designed by Pöyst Anne-Mari Pahkala, who has become the actor's credit planner in recent years. Pöysti has dressed in Pahkala's creations for, among others, the Linna party, the Jussi gala and the Cannes Film Festival.

Pahkala's suits have also been seen on other well-known people, for example at Linna's parties. For last year's party, she designed eight costumes.

Just when Pahkala and her seamstress had completed the work contract for Linna's party, the Golden Globe gala announced its list of nominees. Pöysti would of course need a gala outfit.

The time to design and make the costume was only three weeks.

“We already had our sleeves rolled up after Linna's party, so we immediately got to work. Fortunately, I'm quick to make decisions,” Pahkala laughs.

Pahkala and Pöysti decided together right from the start that Dead leaves would serve as inspiration for a gala outfit.

“Having already seen the film in the fall, I was left thinking that Kaurismäki's world has the same gesturalness and timelessness that I also appreciate in design. I wanted to bring a jagged, reduced shape to the suit, but at the same time glamor with a touch of humor and a declaration of freedom,” says Pahkala.

Humor and freedom can be seen in the pockets of an otherwise classic suit, which are not traditionally seen in women's evening dresses. The suit is made of luxurious shantung silk.

The color red is repeated several times in the film, so it was a natural choice for the color of the suit as well.

Stylist Liisa Kokko completed Pöyst's party outfit with jewelry, which includes a bronze piece from Kalevala's Lumikukka collection. Picture: Matt Winkelmeyer / Magazine photo

Pahkala is the main designer of the domestic fashion brand Samuji, but in addition to washing, he also designs his own unique suits.

The Golden Globe suit is Pahkala's third unique outfit designed for Pöyt. The first was an evening dress for the 2021 Jussi gala, the second a jumpsuit made under the Samuji brand for the 2022 Linna party. Both creations were seen again at last summer's Cannes Film Festival, where Dead leaves was awarded.

For Pahkala, designing a gala outfit is not only about clothing, but about storytelling, respecting the occasion and expressing the spirit of the times, she describes.

The public's or fashion critics' opinions about the costume don't bother Pahkala that much, because the most important thing for him is that Pöysti is comfortable in his outfit.

Costumes designed by Anne-Mari Pahkala have been seen many times at Linna's parties. Picture: Fairytale Mali

“Main my task is that the party outfit brings joy to the wearer in his big moment, acts as a friend and gives self-confidence when needed.”

Pahkala graduated as a clothing designer in 2007. At the beginning of her career, she worked as a costume designer in TV productions.

He worked as an independent designer until 2021. In 2022, he started as Samuji's chief designer after founding the brand Samu-Jussi Koski gave way to his pesti.

Putting your own handprint on Hollywood red carpets is the result of a lot of work. Pahkala is grateful and proud of his achievements.

“At a moment like this, it feels valuable to look back and remember how determinedly we have gone towards something,” he says.

Seeing one's own creation at a globally followed gala can be a turning point for a designer. Pahkala's dreams include spreading his own work to the world.

“Many of my dreams have come true – even ones I couldn't even dream of, like this moment.”