“Alert, do not use lip balm”, indicates a TikTok with more than 1.4 million views. “I use cocoa every two minutes and after what I have found out, I am not going to use it in my life,” says the creator of the video before stating that “lip balms dehydrate more than they hydrate.” Many others circulate viral content on the social network that some cocoas are not recommended. Although there are balms that can damage the lips, the dermatologists consulted by EL PAÍS assure that there are others that do moisturize them and recommend using them regularly. The key to differentiating them is in the ingredients.
Why do lips dry out?
To check if what these TikToks indicate is true, it is important to know why lips dry out and how balms work. “The lips tend to dry out more than the skin of other areas of the face and body because their skin is thinner and more delicate: it does not have keratin or sebaceous glands and is exposed to a large number of external aggressions,” he says. Maria Marcos, dermatologist at the Facial Aesthetics Unit of the Pedro Jaén Serrano and La Moraleja Group centers. Among the factors that contribute to dry lips, Alicia Lopez Gomez, dermatologist at the Dermamurcia clinic, mentions ultraviolet radiation, touching or sucking on them, breathing through the mouth or environmental factors. “In winter and in dry climates it is common for them to dry out and crack,” she points out.
Some facial cosmetics and oral drugs can also influence dehydration: “Retinoids to treat acne or acne. psoriasis “The common side effect is the development of cheilitis (inflammation of the lips).” Some diseases or conditions can explain or aggravate cheilitis, according to López. This is the case of atopic dermatitis, allergies to components that are in contact with the lips – for example, perfumes -, nutritional deficiencies or systemic diseases (that affect the entire body) such as Crohn’s disease.
Do lip balms dehydrate more than they hydrate?
Diana Camacho, dermatologist and head of the Hair Health Unit at the International Dermatological Clinic and the Rober International Hospital, explains that it is not true that lip balms dehydrate more than they hydrate. “When the skin or lips are dry, we need to provide hydration with some emollient base to try to restore the epidermal barrier and maintain moisture,” she says. The experts consulted advise using cocoa daily or regularly to take care of the skin barrier of the lips and keep them hydrated.
Just because effective lip balms do moisturize does not mean that there are not some that can damage the lips. Everything will depend on the ingredients they contain. “Some contain components that can be irritating or even cause contact cheilitis. Therefore, far from moisturizing, they cause stinging, burning or burning on the lips when applied and can cause greater inflammation, dehydration, dryness and cracks,” says López.
What functions can a lip balm fulfill?
Skin hydration is achieved essentially in two ways, according to Marcos: by providing water and preventing its evaporation. Depending on the ingredients they contain, balms will have one or more functions. Moisturizing ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, “contribute to increasing water content or promote water uptake.”
Emollients “prevent evaporation or water loss by providing lipids that reinforce the skin barrier and soften the skin.” This is the case of silicones, vitamin E and some oils. Occlusives also prevent water loss through evaporation by creating a protective layer that seals the skin’s surface. For example, Vaseline.
Are cocoa, lip balm and Vaseline the same thing?
Cacao is a more colloquial way of referring to lip balm, according to López: “This is because many lip balms have cocoa among their components, which gives it a pleasant chocolate aroma and flavor, in addition to providing hydration thanks to its fats.” natural”. Vaseline is not the same as cocoa, but is a product frequently used in the formulation of lip balms because it creates a barrier that prevents water loss.
Some viral videos on TikTok indicate that the Vaseline does not moisturize and acts as a stopper. Marcos explains that, in reality, Vaseline has the ability to moisturize indirectly: “It does not provide or retain water, but it prevents it from being lost by creating a protective seal on the surface of the skin.” It is advisable to be cautious with health information on TikTok, as many users without training in dermatology give advice. “The videos are usually very short and tend to mix concepts, make erroneous interpretations of some ideas and, therefore, draw debatable or outright wrong conclusions,” says Marcos.
How to protect your lips and choose a good lip balm?
Among the “valid” ingredients for lip balms, Marcos mentions hyaluronic acid, petroleum jelly, paraffin, rosehip oil, gotu kola, oils, ceramides, vitamin E, glycerin, beeswax or carnauba wax or shea butter. To prevent lips from drying out, the dermatologist also advises drinking plenty of water, not moistening them with your tongue, not biting the “little skins” and using specific lip masks once or twice a week.
It also recommends that the balm contain sunscreen. Although he advises using it all year round, he considers it essential on the beach or on the high seas in summer and in the mountains in winter. López suggests avoiding sun exposure in the middle of the day and wearing clothing that protects the lips – such as a wide-brimmed hat. “When we cannot avoid exposure, that is when we should use a balm that has photoprotection with an SPF equal to or greater than 30″, he says. For example, when going to the snow or working in the field.
What ingredients are recommended to avoid?
Some ingredients can cause contact dermatitis and are therefore best avoided, according to Lopez. This is the case of fragrances, camphor, flavorings (menthol, cinnamon, peppermint oil, vanilla or citrus), propolis, rosin, eucalyptus, lanolin used as an emollient, solvents such as propylene glycol, propyl gallate which It is used as a preservative, dyes or certain sunscreens such as octocrylene or octinoxate. “Of course, you have to avoid applying any balm that, when applied, causes itching, burning or burning”, he maintains.
Marcos states that alcohol can dry out or irritate the lips of people with sensitive skin and that camphor and menthol can bother if applied to chapped lips. Some of these ingredients “are used to provide freshness, improve the texture of the product or create a sensation of volumization of the lip.” However, as he explains, they are usually in very small quantities (at the end of the ingredients list) and may not pose a health risk.
In which cases is it advisable to go to a specialist?
Camacho advises going to a dermatologist when redness, cracks or other types of lesions appear on the lips to rule out any underlying disease. This area of the mouth is very vulnerable to the development of skin cancer, due to various factors such as sun exposure or smokingAs Marcos emphasizes: “You have to pay attention to new spots and small ulcers or wounds that have not completely healed because they can mask skin tumors.”
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