Ramón Freixa (Castellfullit de Riubregós, Barcelona, 09/07/1971) has experienced the change in Madrid in its palates and in its own essence since he settled fifteen years ago. With a Michelin star in his family restaurant, and two others already achieved in the capital, Freixa is the living example of a Catalan who has found his place in the world in Madrid, on the ‘air bridge’, on the AVE. Now, he is changing his project, and plans to open a new restaurant in the Salamanca neighborhood in which tradition and creativity go hand in hand. Something that is a trademark of the house but that in this new era of its production will have its most personal spaces. Ramón Freixa surpasses the concept of being in love with Madrid, and he does so, in the interview, according to a response in which he includes himself as “Madridian.” Therefore, it is not idle to probe him about the feedback between the two largest cities in the country: Barcelona and Madrid. He, as his networks demonstrate, denies the majority of the Calderonian ‘adage’ that a house with two doors is bad to keep. He knows that, as a Madrid native, the fact of being “enjoyable” is almost a motto that he calmly elevates to its highest expression. Freixa is a lover of Retiro, but also of those slightly more rogue places, like Juana la Loca or Lucio, where many Sundays he feels the pulse of the city. He emphasizes that in Madrid, before the avant-garde arrived, there was a breeding ground, a magma, so that the city, in three five-year periods, has been placed in the ‘top 5’ of the world capitals of gastronomy. Related News standard Yes Joaquín Leguina: «Madrid does not need anything to win. Resisting to win reminds me of Sánchez» Jesús Nieto Jurado In a Community that was being formed, he knows romantic keys. Like that of his own anthem—It is an inevitable question. But it must be formulated. When you settled in Madrid, what was the gastronomic scene that you found?—Madrid, fifteen years ago, was not that world capital of gastronomy. It was a city where you ate well, where there were restaurants with traditional cuisine. The avant-garde was beginning to appear, very discreetly. But it was that fun city, that city where you had the great seafood restaurants, the great traditional cuisine restaurants. —Camba, the ‘loner of the Palace’, said that Spanish gastronomy was all garlic and religious superstitions. And I suppose he was referring to Madrid…—In Madrid there was and is very good raw material. It is true that it is the great sea port of Spain, where, yes, where you find those fantastic raw materials. Being in the center means having everything, the best from all parts of Spain.—How did your concept of cuisine enter Madrid’s palates? The process, I mean.—I came from El Racó d’en Freixa, with my parents’ and my creations, an established restaurant, with a Michelin star and many awards. It was about moving that part of signature cuisine to Madrid. That’s why we named the restaurant Ramón Freixa Madrid, so that there would be no doubt that I had moved to this city. Now it wouldn’t make sense to give him that last name, that of Madrid. Years ago, and hence the question, we had to tell that Ramón Freixa was coming to Madrid. —And that establishment in the capital, what does it translate into?—I had little information about that Castilian or La Mancha cuisine, which I knew little about. But I had never made it. You don’t have to set boundaries in cooking: you are always learning. There were products unknown to me like cardoons or borage, and now I make cardoons with almond sauce that are spectacular. —He has confessed that Madrid is the world capital of gastronomy. Can you specify? Are we in the top 10? We are in the top 5. You no longer have to travel to London, New York or Paris to see these great venues. But now in Madrid we have great concepts, or very signature and personal cuisines; or traditional restaurants where the scoundrel comes in. —Is he scoundrel?—I always say that there are fun restaurants. The way you go on Sunday to have a pincho, you go to Lucio… That’s the good thing, that mix of people that Madrid has. —Does Madrid’s ‘gourmet’ exist?—I don’t like to talk about Madrid’s ‘gourmet’, the customer knows how to choose, knows how to eat, knows what he likes and what he doesn’t like. The Madrileño likes to go out, he likes to eat. And he knows. The ‘gourmet’ of Madrid is a ‘gourmet gourmet’ and enjoyable. We Madrid people are very enjoyable.—It is included, as Catalan, as Madrid. In you, the Calderonian ‘adage’ of a house with two doors is not fulfilled, it is bad to keep.—I am very Catalan, I do not want to lose my essence. I rather have a broken heart, like Alejandro Sanz, I love my Barcelona, my Catalonia, and I love Madrid. You are not from dad or mom – You are from dad and mom. (Laughs).—How do Madrid and Barcelona feed off each other?—They are two living cities. Two cities that I believe have that life that is reflected in their people; Those from Barcelona love to come to Madrid, and those from Madrid love to go to Barcelona. It’s that air bridge…—And railway…—And railway, and thank God it’s the AVE, heh, heh, heh, I make food for the business class. The thing is that you’re half past two and you don’t feel homesick.
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