Saturday, August 3, 2024, 18:05
With the virtual disappearance of tourism from Western countries, the stampede of the main global brands due to the war in Ukraine and the sanctions, the GUM (Russian acronym for ‘State Department Store’) has become a must-visit place this summer for tourists arriving from other regions of Russia. But not to buy anything, since the prices of its boutiques are still prohibitive, but to stroll through its luxurious galleries, taste an ice cream, at most, buy some sweets at the so-called Gastronom Number 1 or have a snack in one of its restaurants or cafes.
Until recently, the GUM, located in the middle of Red Square opposite the Kremlin, was frequented by Moscow’s wealthy elite, who came to the fashion stores to spend their fortunes. Russia’s huge economic boost came during President Vladimir Putin’s years of plenty thanks to the massive sale of gas, oil, gold, diamonds, nickel, aluminium and many other raw materials abundant in Russia to all countries around the world.
GUM was once home to Chanel, Dior, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Karl Lagerfeld, Louis Vuitton and Zara, among many others. Nowadays, only Russian brands remain, such as Maag, which replaced Zara and kept all its stores. There are also Chinese brands such as Ellassay, which now has the same premises that Prada used to occupy, and Turkish brands such as Cimpa. But Moscow’s posh people don’t seem to be too interested in what is now sold in GUM, after it has lost all its glamour.
The new offering has also not reduced its prices compared to the big brands that left Russia in 2022 and 2023. The result is that these stores are almost always empty. This is not the case for the three splendid corridors of the building with their three levels and the central fountain, which are constantly crowded with travellers from all over Russia.
Gastronom No. 1, with its Stalinist-era décor, marble and ostentatious lamps, is a reflection of the supermarkets of the Soviet era. It is a delight for nostalgic people because it offers what used to be found in shops throughout the USSR. These are Russian food brands that try to preserve the packaging and wrappings of the communist era.
Strolling through the center
The GUM is the ideal place to take a break from visiting the most emblematic places in the city centre, such as the Kremlin with its palaces and churches, St Basil’s Cathedral, the History Museum and Lenin’s Mausoleum. The area also allows you to walk to bustling streets such as Nikolskaya, Ilinka and Tverskaya, as well as to the Bolshoi Theatre and to well-known hotels such as the Metropol and the National.
On Ilinka Street, just a few metres from the GUM, you will find Gostini Dvor, another of the capital’s historic buildings. Gostini Dvors (guest houses) were former markets that also functioned as post offices. They have been converted into shopping centres in almost all of Russia. The one in Moscow is full of souvenir and craft shops. Its imposing central courtyard is often used for exhibitions, fairs and conferences. Putin gave his state of the nation speech there on 29 February.
Next to the Bolshoi Theatre is the TsUM (Central Department Store), another large shopping centre. Its name also comes from the communist era. The current Gothic-Art Nouveau appearance of the façade, which is currently being renovated, was given to it in 1908. It is home to the shops of the leading Russian fashion designers.
Burned down and closed down
But the GUM is actually the oldest shopping centre in Moscow. First there were chaotic wooden stalls, then a brick building was erected, which burned down – during the arson attacks deliberately set by the population in 1812 to drive Napoleon and his troops out of the capital – and another building was built on its ashes, which was eventually demolished in 1869.
The city’s merchants then announced a competition for the construction of a new building, which was won by architect Alexander Pomerantsev. The spectacular glass roof, very similar to that of the Milanese galleries, was designed by the brilliant engineer Vladimir Shukhov. The roof appears weightless and very light, but its construction required several tons of metal.
The new GUM opened its doors in 1893. Rather than shops, it was a large salon with luxurious interiors and diligent salespeople. A dentist’s surgery, an engraving and jewellery workshop, a hairdresser’s, a post office and a restaurant also opened at that time. Exhibitions and musical evenings were also organised.
After the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917, the department store was nationalised and trading ceased. It reopened in 1953 with the same interior as it is today, albeit with less lighting and brightness. But it was the best-stocked store in the whole of the Soviet Union. That’s why the first thing foreigners did when they arrived in the capital was to go shopping at GUM.
Muscovites did the same almost every day until the years when the country was ruled by Yuri Andropov (1982-1984), when the Militia (police) cordoned off the area and demanded identification from those leaving the warehouses to check whether they had run away from their jobs. If they had, they were sometimes punished by losing their jobs. Repeat offenders could even end up in prison. These galleries no longer have the same commercial appeal today, although they do have aesthetic, cultural and tourist appeal.
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