A chronological journey through 300 years of history, from 1534 to 1834, has allowed the journalist Ítalo Sifuentes to offer a documented investigation to ratify the Peruvian origin of pisco and suggest that your country should insist on the unanimous recognition of that appellation of origin.
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With information that goes back to the beginning of the colonial period and delves into documents from the 19th century that remain in national and foreign archives, Sifuentes has published in Lima the book “De un solo tiro.
Peruvian creations of the 16th century”, dedicated to the history of grape distillate declared a “flag drink” in Peru.
“Specialized history books have always started from different times, places, and there has not been a dedication to exactly identify where the cradle of this product was,” the author told EFE, noting that his research focuses on the southern department of Ica, neighboring Lima.
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In this region, the city, the valley and the Pisco river have been identified for centuries, which accounts for the origin of a product that “It came to be consolidated with an identity, with a name, which is pisco.”
Today is the day of Pisco, our flag drink!
I share a very interesting video by Jhony Schuler, authoritative voice on issues related to Pisco.
There is only one Pisco and it is Peruvian! 🇵🇪#Pisco #Peru pic.twitter.com/rtc3guQbs6
—Amora Carbajal (@AmoraCarbajal) July 23, 2023
In this way, in a document from 1588 of the Cabildo de Lima, which the author found digitized in a foreign university, it is already indicated that “hand in hand with the Spanish, the indigenous people, the caciques of Ica, planted grapes and made wine“, he referred.
Since the indigenous people are also owners of vineyards, producers of wine and, later, of the brandy that later became known as pisco, Sifuentes maintained that it is “not only a mestizo product, but also a unifying one” in Peru.
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Other data can be found in the General Archive of the Indies, where there is a reference from 1726 to a commercial transaction of pisco brandy, and there are also mentions in the archives and judicial catalogs of the General Archive of the Nation.
Data from the 19th century
In 1803, some 20 years before Peruvian independence, the viceroyalty authorities carried out a census in Ica in which the producers reported that their main activity was the production of brandy and that “they live off that”.
In another document published in Spain in 1852 “it was recognized that a method of making brandy had already been generated in Peru, which was an exquisite drink and was called pisco, a name that came from the port and the town of
Pisco,” added Sifuentes.
“One can see that this product and this drink is part of the day to day in the culture of Ica and of the Peruvians of the 16th, 17th, 18th century, even the 19th century,” added before pointing out that “this speaks of an economic, commercial, productive, agrarian, that no other country that has tried to say that it also makes pisco can say that it forms part of its day-to-day life”.
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Sifuentes has also found that in the 19th century there was “a first boom in
pisco” as a Peruvian product, an issue that he considered “something really wonderful” for being one of “the first industries of Peruvians, made by four hands with Spaniards, indigenous people and all those who contracted and subcontracted”.
The researcher said that from 1821, when Peru became independent, “the product began to be exported” and there is evidence that it was taken to Calcutta and Chile, since some documents mention the shipment of “some pisquitos” to that country.
Currently, when you travel through the south of the country, you will find vineyards “that are managed by people of indigenous descent” whose surnames already appear in old documents, and in the National Registry of Identification and Civil Status (Reniec) “there are more than 20,000 Peruvians who are called Pisco”.
After the campaign that Peru began in recent decades to achieve international recognition of this liquor, Sifuentes considered that now it must “go to a next stage” to seek that all countries grant it the designation of origin.
“What it’s time now is to grow, to go out into the world with a strengthened identity, since around it Peru has much to demonstrate: its resilience, its entrepreneurial capacity, its inventiveness, in the face of the most adverse conditions,” he concluded. .
EFE
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