The smell of kunafa with cheese stopped passers-by to search for the secret of the “appetite blight” and who was behind it, and the answer came: “From the teacher Jean”.
But after the closure of the famous “Falafel Zion”, which is located a few meters from “Kunafa Jan” towards the center of Beirut in the summer of 2021, this year began with the official announcement of the closure of “Kunafa Jan” through an advertisement hanging at the entrance of the store in which the Lebanese Jeans are deposited, especially the sons of Lebanon. Ashrafieh, and their memories in this arena.
The kunafa is a symbol of the morning breakfast for the Lebanese in general and the Beirutis in particular, regardless of their sect, and its fresh ingredients of high quality have accompanied many generations, but after it was within reach of the majority, its price became imaginary and in the pocket of the “lucky” only those who can afford.
“Halunji” Jan
Jean Koussa Halonji of Ashrafieh was known for his crisp white dress and keenness to perfect his work. He spent nearly 60 years tirelessly preparing and selling sweets.
A resident of the area who lived with Jan told Sky News Arabia: “Al-Moallem took the decision to close two weeks before the end of 2021, and announced it at the beginning of the new year. Al-Moallem Jan is part of the region’s heritage. She fell in love with everyone who was passing through the area, heading to work, school or university.
He continued, “Jan was famous for his kunafa, although he was also proficient in making floats, the Beirut buckle, and other sweets, especially on Eid al-Fitr. His customers were not limited to the people of the region only, but they came to him from the west and north of the capital.”
He talked about the circumstances of the closure, saying: “Because of the crisis that hit Lebanon, Master Jean alone could not withstand it and continue in his small corner, like many owners of small crafts in Lebanon. He lived for nearly 60 years in his small shop, which does not exceed a few square meters. He used The basement is for display while he was making kunafa in the small attic he built above the sales hall.”
About his beginnings, one of Jean’s close friends told Sky News Arabia: “I’ve known him for a long time in Sidon (southern Lebanon). He learned his profession there and then moved to work in the famous Riviera Hotel in Beirut, then moved to Sassine Square and started making cakes, but Circumstances pushed him to go to the sweets industry, and he was 17 years old when he started his journey in the world of Arabic sweets.
He added: “He rented his small and modest shop in Sassine Square in the sixties, and at that time he was the only sweets maker in it, and he decided to go to the Arab sweets industry, especially since he had excellent experience and expertise in this field.”
And he added, “Jan started his work when the price of the kunafa cake in that period was 50 piasters (half a lira), while the price of a falafel sandwich was 25 piasters. Jan used the same ingredients of cheese, sugar and semolina that he prepared himself, but the price of the kunafa cake increased in The economic crisis increased from 4,000 pounds, then to 12,000 pounds, about 6 months ago, and today it has jumped to more than 40,000 pounds.”
The friend concluded by saying: “I knew that my friend Jean would leave Lebanon for the United States to rest with his children there. He left the Ashrafieh neighborhood without even leaving us his phone number.”
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