He oud It is one of the most sought after ingredients in current perfumery. Its high price and exclusivity have earned it names such as black gold and liquid gold. Associated with the perfumery Eastern for centuries, in the West it has begun to be used relatively recently. Oud is a mysterious and exquisite essence, which gives the perfume power and uniqueness. If you smell it in isolation it is surprising and, most of the time, repulsive, but it’s addictiveand there are more and more master perfumers who decide to create fragrances around it.
What is oud and where is it obtained from?
Oud, also known as agarwood, wood of the gods, etc., is one of the most used ingredients in Middle Eastern perfumery for years. Since the signature Olibanumcreated by perfumer Gérald Ghislain, they explain that it is sold in three forms: raw, powder or oil. «Its rarity and its diverse qualities make it one of the ten most expensive woods in the world. Agarwood has existed since 800 BC and appears in Indian texts that demonstrate its medicinal uses. Long before it became a fragrance, played a role in medicine, religion and the arts».
Juan López Becerrilcreator of Xponential Boost and the perfumery Nefertum Parfum and popularizer through the YouTube channel Huéleme Mucho, tells us that oud It is obtained from the Aquilaria treepresent in Southeast Asia, but its value lies in the fact that a fungus must invade it. «This tree being infected by a fungus “It tries to defend itself and generates a resin that, when mixed with the wood and once processed, gives rise to oud.”
But it is a process that requires years, and patience, in fact today, and given the growing demand for oud, technology is used to accelerate it. This is what the Olibanum experts say «technology allows bacteria to be manually infiltrated into trees in plantations. The bacteria need six months to develop, after which some plants receive a second injection that increases resin production by 25%. “Agarwood aged for 5 years produces a stronger, smokier aroma, highly desired in perfumery.”
The different species of the Aquilaria tree, the diverse origins and methods of processing this ingredient mean that oud is very varied in terms of smell, qualities and prices. Regarding its price, Laura Romerotraining director of Guerlain Spain, assures that «up to 125,000 euros have been paid per kilo of the best Indian oudtremendously scarce. Currently, the average price for a quality oud for perfumery is around 5,000 euros per kilo».
What does oud smell like?
The age of the tree, the origin, the species… are factors that determine the quality of the oud, and also its smell. What is clear, according to perfume expert Juan López Becerril, “is that its smell is usually somewhat amazingand not very positive the first time you smell itbut it is very addictive and I like it more every day. We can be talking about smells of dark wood, animalic, leather, smell of sweet wood, smokedcerealic, greenish, aquatic… Although in the West the smell that everyone identifies with oud is that of Indian oud, which has an exit like a barn (classic comment from those who smell it for the first time) and evolves into a woody, animalic smell with a leather undertone.
When it comes to incorporating this precious ingredient into the perfume, it can be done in different ways, as López Becerril explains: “such as main notebeing the note that marks the fragrance, like a more note within the perfume formula or like basegiving darkness, class, strength and attraction to the perfumes it reinforces. Depending on what you want to achieve, the oud is the perfect companion.
Laura Romero warns that “the oud has so much personality that it is very difficult to work on. “It is even very difficult to mix it with other powerful essences.”
Not all perfumes with oud are the same, but we have selected several, in case you want to try a fragrance based on the most exquisite and coveted active ingredient in current perfumery.
Oud Boost by Xponential Boost
Oud Boost by Xponential.
It is not a perfume in itself, since its objective is enhance the aroma of any fragrancebut it can also be used alone. This perfume enhancer, thanks to oud, redefines elegance and sophistication in each application. It is an olfactory experience that transforms any perfume. With its base of oud, the most luxurious and sought after note in the field of perfumery, Oud Boost infuses each aroma richness and depth. This product has been designed to prolong the life of fragrances, amplify their presence and elevate the status of the wearer. Its price: 79 euros, 50 ml.
Olibanum Oud
Olibanum Oud.
A perfume with oud, Cites certified, which ensures that its production and sale do not harm biodiversity, which is andbalanced by the rose. The combination of both ingredients results in a sophisticated, delicate and powerful fragrance for men and women. Its price: 87 euros, 50 ml.
Oud Khôl L’Art & La Matière by Guerlain
Oud Khôl by Guerlain.
Oud Khôl reveals the most beautiful facets of the black oud wood. Like kohl, which purifies the eye and intensifies the look, oud wood allows the Guerlain master perfumer Thierry Wasser get absolute black. The aldehyde enhancer helps Oud Khôl become a leather and charcoal accordto further darken the oud wood. A moss accord with charcoal reflections and the unexpected delight of a caramelized praline note enrich this palette. The oud wood chosen by Guerlain perfumers comes from the Bangladesh forestson the borders of Assam, and is harvested by hand following ancient methods. Its price: 325 euros, 100 ml.
Oud Ispahan from the Christian Dior Privée Collection
Oud Ispahan from La Collection Privée by Christian Dior.
A unisex perfume from the oriental floral family created around wood oud and damask rose. The formula is completed with woody and spicy nuances of clove and cumin. Voluptuous, built with an audacity that is not compromised, the woody and floral silhouette of this unisex eau de parfum outlines an opulent and powerful trail. It leaves behind the mark of an authentic and unforgettable character. Price: 395 euros, 80 ml.
Oud For Greatness Neo by Initio
Initio Oud For Greatness Neo.
Built around oud, it uses this powerful ingredient – and its psychoactive properties – to make us cconnect with our inner joy strengthconverting all negative energy into positive. In addition to oud wood, its formula includes Orpur® Fir, Bergamot and Lavender Balma subtle mix of fresh and power. Its price: 315 euros, 90 ml at Isolée.
Oud Eau de Parfum by Acqua di Parma
Oud Acqua di Parma.
The noblest and most difficult to obtain of wood essences, agarwood oud, blends with notes of Russian coriander and Haitian amyris wood on a bed of luminous citrus notes. Its price: 230 euros, 100 ml.
Oud Kasbah Royal of Marrakech Imperial
Oud Kasbah Royal Marrakech Imperial.
A woody amber unisex parfum extraitenriched by the fruity and syrupy character of davana, the warm spices and the fluffy floral notes of mimosa. A symbol of royalty and power, Oud Kasbah Royal is a must-have fragrance for oud lovers. Its price: 250 euros, 100 ml, at 5th Essence Square.
#oud #expensive #desired #ingredient #perfumery
