Bring the ‘elf’ of a Jerez tabanco to Madrid is a daunting task and, in some ways, impossible. Everything intangible and sensory is missing, the landscape and the country people. But La Santa, one of the novelties of the Huertas neighborhood this 2024, is gradually weaving that parish of locals and foreigners who come to the warmth of simple things.
To the toast with white hair well drafted –yes, here the short measure is maintained without the imposition of double the amount of beer– at a reasonable price (1.5 euros) and with contained fun. And extensive tapas with a menu that is well worth several visits. It’s a place to return to.
In a space where there cannot be a kitchen due to the characteristics of the premises, there is the skill and craft of those who have given it a new life. There was previously a project that the neighborhood fell in love with, the trattoria. Il Giro in Tandemwith which the tricycle group caused a sensation.
This year, the chef Javier Goya He gave it a twist with proposals that do match those technical limitations without them being perceived in his offer. It is perfect for a tabanco with a large chapter of quality sausages, cheeses and salted meats.
From a 18 month Chilean wagyu jerky (18) about Herpac ling roe (9). It’s worth trying Homemade red tuna ‘semimojama’ (19) that Goya does. There is no shortage of sausages with seasoned pork rinds (8) or choricera blood sausage (6).
Nor ‘pickles, vinegars and raw foods’ that have their own space on the menu: gildas (3); pickled anchovies with fries, olives and piparras (15, average 8); or a white shrimp and almond tartare (22, average 14). Nor vegetables – fresh or canned like La Catedral de Navarra – like artichoke served with yolk, Iberian jowl and mustard dressing (6 units) or roasted eggplant with Moorish dressing (14).
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What to order:
the homemade ‘semimojama’, the artichoke and the Andalusian bikini. -
Perfect for:
drink wines by the glass. -
Beer price:
2.5 euros (double). -
Price of muffins:
7 euros. -
Address:
Santa María, 39. Madrid.
To open your mouth, with bread as the common thread, although Murcia appears a delicious sailor with its salad, anchovy and piparras (4). And more typical of the south, a ‘andalusian bikini‘ with a muffin filled with pork rinds, cheese, yolk and colorá butter (8).
More than 50 wines by the glass –most of the Marco de Jerez– completes an interesting proposal that extends the afternoon and tapas – even with desserts such as their homemade flan and rosemary cream (7) – until midnight.
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