Etro: Take it easy
Dhe new era – without Veronica and Kean Etro – began at Etro in September, with Marco de Vincenzo’s first show. At the time, he only had three weeks to work on the collection. It’s been almost half a year now, and it’s correspondingly clearer what will happen to Etro without the Etros.
The coarse knit, the light dresses with paisley and floral patterns seem less high-quality than Veronica Etro’s collections back then, at least on the catwalk. Do the investors from L Capital, a subsidiary of the luxury group LVMH, also expect higher sales figures?
In any case, the models wear an it-piece of a checked scarf wrapped tightly around their bodies. And the best looks are those where de Vincenzo doesn’t take it quite so casually, with low-cut embroidered patent-leather blazers.
Fendi: discretion, please!
The Fendi woman under Kim Jones also lives in luxury in everyday life. The nude tones cultivated by Jones in previous seasons are now becoming sky blue and grey. She loves it discreet – which is almost completely against the grain of fashion these days: the sequins shimmer matte on the inside of the lapels, the crystals sparkle on the heels of the boots.
Discretion doesn’t have to be boring: the blazers are also coats, the pants with pleated aprons are also skirts, and the ribbed knit number at the end with a dramatic back flounce is actually an evening dress.
Diesel: Cassettes? condoms!
The models do their laps around a mountain in the middle of the theater. From a distance it looks as if old cassettes are piled up there. They are packs of condoms. Diesel cooperates with Durex, it’s about as obvious as Moschino and Barbie were a few years ago.
Diesel chief designer Glenn Martens is quick to jump on the aggressively explicit Y2K trend, which is a natural fit for the brand, given its heyday in the noughties with low-rise, baring jeans, spaghetti straps and bandeau tops. The parts are back now and seem even more worn.
The models also wear chokers around their necks, which are reminiscent of Dolce & Gabbana’s sex chains from 2003. 2023 is written here instead, not exactly more imaginative: Diesel.
Prada: Is this still workwear or already fashion?
A little note from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons to all fashion people: dresses aren’t just there for self-portrayal, to be noticed by the street style photographers on Thursday afternoon outside their own house, the Fondazione Prada, for example. Pieces fulfill their primary purpose when people live in them, maybe even work in them. Is that still clothing? Or already fashion?
In any case, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons make fashion out of clothing by taking on work uniforms from nurses’ scrubs to suits and continuing to turn them – with volume, with floor-length trains, made of patent leather.
In times when clothes are an important element of the personality game, i.e. making people what they want to be, the idea is as experimental as it is sure to be commercially successful afterwards. Raf Simons mentions it when it comes to the robust coats: “People really want them. So that should continue to develop.”
Emporio Armani: Then as now
The blazer is a big theme this season in Milan. Of course he can’t let him take him: Giorgio Armani, formerly known as the “king of the blazer”. The same principles apply to the second brand Emporio: The blazers for the coming fall are made of wool, velvet, with pinstripes or double-breasted buttons.
The man who loosened up the jacket for men from 1975 and then quickly for women, and who still serves his loyal clientele today, now knows what it’s worth concentrating on. Some things never change.
Max Mara: winter coats for climate change
Max Mara stays beige! That’s good news, because no one can handle beige – strictly speaking, the palette from cream to caramel – better than this traditional company from the central Italian region of Emilia-Romagna.
The classic camel hair coat, now in the ankle-length version, has long since become a fashion icon, and that’s what you have to do with a coat first.
Climate change is doing the rest, and in many latitudes it doesn’t need much more than such a thin coat. Even the blazers and lightweight nylon coats from the show would suffice in Milan on this balmy February day.
Del Core: untie the seams
Daniel Del Core’s success is nice proof that the seams of the traditional Milanese companies are no longer so tight. Just ten years ago it was hardly possible for young designers to break into this world, let alone build up a brand on their own. Now the designers of the big houses are gradually stepping down, and talents like Daniel Del Core, who also has German roots, are following.
He not only symbolically loosens the seams in his collection, but also gives his blazers and tops the “cold shoulder” and works with waist and hip cutouts on the maxi dresses. It’s all very impressive.
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