Needles with Eyes: The Birth of Fashion in the Paleolithic

There fashionintended as an expression of identity and not just as protection from the cold, has very ancient origins. A recent study published in the journal Science Advances an international research team led by archaeologist Ian Gilligan of the University of Sydney, Australia, has highlighted how the first needles equipped with eyewhich appeared about 40,000 years ago in Siberia, marked a significant turning point in the history of human clothing.

The Innovation of Needles with the Eye

The first needles with eyes represent a technological advancement over the previous bone awls. To make these needles, it was not enough to sharpen the tip of the bone; it was also necessary to pierce one end to create a hole (the eye) through which to pass a tendon or thread for sewing. This innovation allowed for the creation of more complex and ornate garments, reflecting a new way of expressing identity through clothing.

Clothing as an expression of identity

Until the last glacial period, clothing was used only occasionally, as Gilligan notes. Classical tools associated with skin processing, such as scrapers, appeared and disappeared during the different phases of the ice ages. However, towards the end of the last glacial period, in the colder regions of Eurasia, it became necessary to continuously wear clothing to protect oneself from the cold. In this context, the decoration of clothing took the place of the decoration of the body, now covered and hidden.

The Crucial Role of Needles with Eyes

Eyed needles were essential for the fine sewing needed to decorate clothing. Their appearance marks the beginning of the use of clothing as a means of personal expression, as well as simple protection. Garments decorated with beads or other small elements reflect the evolution of fashion as a means of expressing one’s identity.

Ian’s Study Gilligan and his team highlights how fashion has deep roots in the Paleolithic. The innovation of needles with eyes not only allowed for the creation of more functional clothing, but also began the use of clothing as a form of personal expression. This change represents a milestone in the history of fashionshowing how clothing has always been more than just protection, but a means of expressing who we are.