In the cradle of authentic french champagnebeneath the peaceful streets of the charming town of Epernay, a labyrinth of 28 kilometers of underground tunnels hides an incessant transfer around some of the most coveted bottles in the world. In those galleries it works the Moët & Chandon wineryan emblematic house in the DO Champagne and one of the oldest, as it was founded in 1743 and today it is the main producer, as well as a luxury brand recognized throughout the world.
It is the kingdom of Benoit Gouezthe Chef de cave of the prestigious champagne ‘maison’, the person most responsible for the production of its sparkling wines, including the famous Imperial, created on the centenary of the birth of Napoleon Bonaparte, and which is said to be uncorked bottle per second in the world. We talk to the winemaker:
What does champagne mean in today’s times?
Today champagne represents more than just a drink, it is a symbol of celebration, connection and joy. It transcends occasions, becoming a universal marker of those that are most special, from intimate gatherings to large events. It embodies elegance and spontaneity, making every moment memorable.
How do you distinguish good champagne?
A good champagne has balance, elegance and expression. The quality of the grapes, the fineness of the bubbles and the harmony of the flavors are the key indicators. A great champagne like Moët & Chandon will have a touch of sparkling fruit, a seductive palate and a soft and persistent finish. It should evoke both complexity and freshness, leaving you with a feeling of refined pleasure.
On some occasion he has commented that, in addition to knowledge, talent is closely linked to intuition. What qualities do you value in each vintage of your Vintages?
Intuition plays a fundamental role when evaluating the personality of each vintage. I value the balance between maturity, freshness and complexity. A great vintage tells the story of its harvest: it captures the soul of the terroir, reflecting the nuances of the climate and the quality of the grapes. I trust my instincts to interpret these elements and get the best out of them.
How was your first contact with the champagne sector?
My first experience with this world came in 1998, when I joined Moët as assistant winemaker. At first I had no intention of working in the Champagne DO, but I gradually discovered the art and precision involved. Mentors like Dominique Foulon and Richard Geoffroy opened my eyes to the cultural richness and technical challenges of making these wines.
What is the most important part of the tasks performed by a Chef de Cave at Moët?
The most critical responsibility is to ensure consistency in the house’s flagships, for example the Moët Chandon Brut Imperial, while creating unique expressions in our Vintage vintages and special cuvées. This involves leading a team to taste and pair up to 800 wines annually, making instinctive decisions to champion the brand. It is a balance between science, art and intuition.
The winemaker Benoït Gouez
Sparkling wines are on the rise. When is the right time to drink champagne?
It is a versatile drink that can enhance any moment, from casual lunches to sophisticated dinners. The right time to drink champagne is when you want to celebrate or create a memorable occasion. Its adaptability makes it suitable for any situation, large or small.
Is it a drink for everyone?
Absolutely. While often associated with luxury, champagne is also about sharing, conviviality and accessibility. At Moët, our extensive portfolio, ranging from Brut Imperial to Ice Imperial, ensures there is one for every palate, occasion and moment.
What distinguishes Moët & Chandon from other houses?
Our strength lies in the balance between tradition and innovation. As the largest producer of champagne, we have unparalleled diversity in our vineyards and the resources to continually innovate. Our style is defined, as I have mentioned, by bright fruit, a seductive palate and elegant maturity. We make accessible but sophisticated champagnes, designed to bring joy to the greatest number of people, who in turn share their love with those they love.
What is the importance of tradition and heritage versus innovation at Moët?
Tradition is our foundation: it gives us the knowledge to make exceptional champagnes. Innovation, however, guarantees our relevance in a changing world. We honor our heritage while pushing our limits, whether through innovative creations or sustainable practices to adapt to climate change. Both are essential to our identity.
How will the house evolve?
It will do so by embracing innovation and sustainability while maintaining its commitment to quality and heritage. We are exploring new brewing techniques, tackling climate challenges and creating champagnes that resonate with modern consumers. Our goal is to remain at the forefront of the world of champagne while remaining faithful to our timeless values.
Gouez works at the Moët & Chandon headquarters in Epernay.
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