The Eme sandwich, the best in the world, say those from Bilbao

They are an institution in Bilbao. For 74 years there has been a snack, although it is not the only one, that unites Bilbao residents: the Bar Eme sandwich. A mysterious sandwich, which has survived crises, trends and even a pandemic. It was in 1950, when the recipe was created, with a reddish sauce, as secret as the formula of the most famous soft drink in the world. It was devised by the owner of a small business, Emeterio Arnáez—whom everyone called Eme—, great-grandfather of the three siblings—Esther, Borja and Óscar Morales—who now manage the business, just as they inherited it from their parents. And these in turn maintained it with the same wickers that the founder wove. “Why change what works?” acknowledges Óscar Morales.

And what works well, without any discussion, is the formula of this sandwich, which here is called a triangle and is made with a spongy crumb bread, kneaded daily in the bar's oven, filled with artisanal York ham, lettuce fresh, homemade mayonnaise and a spicy sauce. The recipe is not kept under lock and key, but almost. “We don't have it in any safe nor does any notary have it, we keep it in the family, it's in our heads, and none of us tells it to anyone under penalty of death,” jokes the owner.

Borja Morales, head of the kitchen, is in charge of making the seasoning. His mouth remains closed. There is an unwritten commitment between them. They joke about the number of videos on platforms and social networks about how to make this dressing in the image and likeness of the one sold at Eme. Most decipher and conclude that it has roasted peppers, anchovies, egg, tomato and Tabasco. “Our sandwiches can't be found anywhere else. The sauce cannot be imitated. The secret is knowing how to combine the ingredients and have everything done on the same day. We have patented them since 1993, and last year we renewed the license again for another ten years,” explains Óscar Morales.

70% of sales correspond to the triangles, but Eme does not only make a living from them: another of its star products is the tower sandwich (both at 3.60 euros per unit), with the same ingredients, but instead of ham cooked with anchovies from Santoña. “This is a powerful, more complicated preparation, while everyone likes the other.” So much so that Bilbao residents don't mind waiting patiently at the door until it's their turn. It's already a custom. “On days when Athletic Bilbao plays, the waiting time can be more than 40 minutes and the line goes around the street. Is incredible”. Another highlight is Christmas. “These are parties where we are overwhelmed and we only accept orders by reservation.”

They do not give sales figures or how many units they prepare per day. But they claim that, in addition to being the best sandwiches in the world, they are the best known, also outside the city of Biscay. “There are many people from outside who take them, even by plane,” Morales acknowledges. International visitors to the Guggenheim Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts contribute to this, but also those attending the Bilbao BBK Live festival. The limousines also stop on the narrow street of Bar Eme, near Gran Vía. “The members of Guns N' Roses, Bruce Springsteen, actresses like Maribel Verdú, chefs like José Andrés, politicians, presidents of the Government have come to eat here. or soccer players,” explains the owner.

Proud of such an illustrious clientele, he adds another anecdote: the request made by the person in charge of a museum in Hong Kong, when he received a cultural representation from Bilbao, and “the first thing he asked them was if they had not brought him the triangles.” Or the basketball player who moved to Chicago to play and asked his friends who visited him not to forget such a precious meal.

One of the successes, Morales says, was the comprehensive renovation they did in 2014 in the bar, where 19 employees work. “We turned the usual place into a modern and functional space. It changed everything for us, we went from working well to working very well.” The main modification was to reserve a corner of the bar to serve all takeout orders, “so this service does not interfere with the rest of what is offered in the bar and dining room.” In addition to servings of croquettes, salad or patatas bravas, they serve a daily menu for 22 euros, and on Saturdays for 28.50 euros.

Although they have been offered to open new branches or expand business, the three brothers—at the moment, there is no new generation in sight to take over—agree on something: in their romantic vision of the company, since this is the place where the famous sandwich was born and it will not move from this place. “This is a family project and the day we can no longer take care of it we will go out through the front door, but we will not sell it so that someone can destroy it for us.” The house motto says it all: The usual one, the only one.

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