Tranexamic acid, exosomes, NAD+ and other words to add to your beauty dictionary this 2025

tranexamic acid

When taking care of the skin, we must choose active ingredients with scientific evidence that treat the problems that concern us. Retinol remains the most effective and most sought after anti-aging ingredient, but if you are worried about spots there is an active ingredient that you should incorporate: tranexamic acid. The pharmacist Eduardo Senante of pharmacysenante.com assures that it will be one of the most sought after ingredients in 2025. It is an active that has proven effective in treating skin spotsone of the aesthetic concerns that affects more people. In addition to reducing hyperpigmentation, it helps improve brightness of the complexion, and although it is an acid, it is usually well tolerated by all skin types, even the most sensitive.

Cortisol

According to Topdoctors.es, cortisol “is a steroid hormone produced by the adrenal glands, essential for numerous bodily functions, including the regulation of metabolism and the response to stress.” Cortisol is known as stress hormone. A significant increase in its levels can trigger an alteration of the immune system, a sleep imbalance and inflammation of the intestinal system. Furthermore, there is more and more talk, mainly on Tiktok, about the ‘cortisol face’, referring to facial swelling, caused by lack of sleep, anxiety and stress. Cortisol is necessary, but too high levels can have negative consequences for health and be reflected in the skin in the form of acne, redness and even premature wrinkles. What can we do to combat excess cortisol and its consequences on the face? In addition to adapting your beauty routines to the state of your skin (different from the type of skin and which can change due to external circumstances), you have to limit stress and anxiety, practicing exercise, sleeping enough hours and eating a balanced diet.

Aesthetic footprint

A couple of years ago we began to talk about the aesthetic imprint to refer to the impact of certain aesthetic treatments on the face over the years. The doctor explains it Miguel Sánchez Vieracoordinator of the GEDET (Spanish Aesthetic and Therapeutic Dermatology Group of the Spanish Academy of Dermatology and Venereology). «The aesthetic imprint can be positivewhen the treatment and the product used are adapted to the needs and characteristics of the patient and the result is natural and without problems. EITHER negativewhen the product, the technique or the lack of knowledge of the patient’s reality leaves residues of the product, causes an abnormal reaction in the tissues or produces an artificial aesthetic result. To prevent the aesthetic footprint from being negative, the expert recommends that “the product used in aesthetics is not only of quality, but also appropriate to the patient’s characteristics. What may have a positive aesthetic impact on one patient may not have the same impact on another. There are products that persist and produce an excess reaction in some patients; not everyone reacts the same. In them, persistent products such as calcium hydroxyapatite, highly modified hyaluronic acids in the laboratory, etc. should be avoided. It is necessary personalize treatments. Know the characteristics of the patient, their skin, their genetics, and also their facial structure and where they are in their aging process. “Temporary Aesthetic Dermatology treatments, well applied and in the correct hands (those of the dermatologist) usually have positive long-term effects.”

Exosomes

Exosomes, small extracellular vesicles released by cells, are transforming regenerative medicine and advanced aesthetics. They can be of plant or animal origin, and are responsible for transporting proteins, lipids and genetic material between cells, allowing tissue repair and modulation of inflammation. Exosomes have proven effective in improve skin qualityenhancing cellular repair, and also revitalizing the hair folliclesstrengthening the scalp, according to the doctor Cristina Morante, from IML Clinic. At the moment, exosomes can only be applied topically in our country, without needles.

NAD+

NAD+ is a coenzyme present in the body and has various functions: as combat oxidative stress (responsible for premature aging) and provide energy. The problem is that, as with other proteins (such as collagen), it is depleted as the years go by. Science has managed to create, on the one hand, supplements enriched with NAD+. Pleniageone of the brands that markets these supplements assures that “there are scientific studies that show that this compound has positive effects on health to achieve a delay in cellular aging and healthier aging.” On the other hand, there are already cosmetic brands that are including NAD+ in their topical products. Elisabeth Bouhadanaglobal scientific director of L’Oréal Paris, explains how they have come to include this active ingredient in their new Age Perfect Cellular Revival Le Duo Serum. «When L’Oréal Paris Laboratories were given the mission to rethink skin aging at the cellular level, we explored the most innovative approaches. Inspired by our experience in growing Episkin cells, we focused on a way to boost cellular energy, tracking NAD+ levelsan essential metabolite that tends to decrease as we age. Our dual formulas, enriched with vitamins and antioxidants, have demonstrated their ability to improve the resistance of skin cells and protect cell renewal.”

Polynucleotides

Another asset that is revolutionizing aesthetic medicine since 2024 and that will gain prominence this year are polynucleotides, which are used, like exosomes and polylactic acid, as biostimulators. In the words of the doctor Elena Caridespecialist in aesthetic medicine and trainer of Croma, “are highly purified DNA components, extracted from salmon trout, that stimulate cell repair, tissue regeneration and promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Are anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, have a moisturizing effect and restore the balance of the melanocytes, thus unifying the tone.

They have scientific backing, years of experience and have different applications, from the eye contour, to the face, neck and décolleté, body areas (such as the inside of the arms, hands, abdomen or knees) and hair (hair regeneration). . The polynucleotides are applied with intradermal injections in the areas to be treated.