The White House kitchen has experienced hectic moments these days. This past Thursday there was a state dinner, the greatest diplomatic entertainment that the United States presidential residence offers, only on very rare occasions, to foreign leaders to whom it wants to pay special tribute. In this case, President Joe Biden received Kenyan William Ruto, a key ally in Africa, at a dinner for 500 people, from former President Barack Obama — a surprise guest who was not on the original list — to actor Sean Penn. All the details of the menu, the cutlery or the floral arrangements were thought out for six months.
In a capital like Washington, where its inhabitants live, breathe (and dream) politics, a state dinner is the biggest event possible. Hundreds of carefully selected guests, the crème de la crème from the legislative and business world, they mix with diplomats and cultural stars. An event that is part spectacle, part high politics, in which every detail—be it the tablecloths, the musical performance or the dessert—is calculated to the millimeter to send a message. According to White House Historical Association, This type of banquet represents a display of “global influence and power and sets the tone for the continuation of the dialogue between the president and the visiting head of state.”
Last year, the dinner dedicated to the Indian Prime Minister, Narendra Modi, was entirely vegetarian (except for a sea bass dish for those who expressly requested it) in respect of the beliefs of the celebrated leader. In 2022, the decoration of the banquet in honor of French President Emmanuel Macron opted for white, red and blue, the shared colors of the shared flags. No expense is spared: according to data from the Barack Obama era, the most recent available, each of these entertainments can exceed half a million dollars.
This, the sixth state dinner hosted by first lady Jill Biden, was held in a pavilion on the White House lawn constructed almost entirely of glass, saturated with brilliant vermillions, warm crimsons, elegant scarlets and generous orchid garnets. African and American roses, intertwined to underline the friendship between the two nations. “While the night surrounds us outside, inside, the guests will gather under the glow of the candles,” explained the wife of President Joe Biden, when presenting the details of the banquet to the press. The idea was to recreate a toast, physical and spiritual, to a “prosperous and bright tomorrow” between the two nations, which this year celebrate the 60th anniversary of their diplomatic relations, as detailed by the first lady.
Light played a fundamental role in creating an “intimate, secluded atmosphere that allows guests to feel welcome and at home in the White House,” the presidential office noted. More than a thousand candles had been placed on the walls of the pavilion; Its brilliance was reflected in 15,000 metal strips suspended in layers under the ceiling, to overflow the room with beams of gold and silver light, “a symbol of the joy of the celebration,” according to the social secretary of the presidential residence, Carlos Elizondo. “It’s something that reflects the first lady’s love of candles. Her way of making guests feel at home, even though they are part of a large group of people,” he added. A large fuchsia rug and lavender tablecloths, with floral motifs and decorated with sequins, completed the explosion of color and festive sensations.
The evening’s music also represented a nod to the tastes of the host and his guest of honor: the gospel choir of Howard University in Washington, one of the historic universities for African-American students, and the country songs of Brad Paisley, winner of three Grammys and performer of 25 number ones in more than 20 years of career. They were joined by the Marine Corps chamber orchestra.
But the highlight—pun intended—of the celebration, and the messages of friendship, was the menu. As throughout her decade in the kitchen of the presidential residence, White House chief cook Cristeta Comerford—the first woman and the first person of Asian origin in the position—had dedicated six months to planning and testing what she could do. fit better. It is a methodical and complicated process: as the chef has explained on several occasions, you have to take into account not only your own inspiration, but also the tastes of the guests of honor, the traditions of the countries being honored and possible restrictions. food of the diners.
![The main course of the dinner: ribs marinated and smoked over fruit wood and accompanied by lobster poached in butter seasoned with citrus-scented butter. All this, on a bed of sweet corn puree, kale and turnips, zucchini and roasted sweet potatoes.](https://imagenes.elpais.com/resizer/v2/WSBFWMMSPEKFF37CXMGEBIE66U.jpg?auth=21fa305227e4d1b7c5426268f0b1ffd6fa0d175d03b12bb5ade1e8a85f55da96&width=414)
The result this time has been different from previous occasions, when the ingredients and preparation of the dishes gave a clear nod to the guest’s culinary traditions. On this occasion, none of the sushi deconstructed that caused a sensation at the previous state dinner, in honor of Japanese Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, last April. Instead, Comerford opted for a proposal with decidedly American roots in his three courses. A tribute to the beginning of summer, to the heat and warmth, as she explained herself in the presentation of her creations.
The first course was a cold tomato soup, fortified with cucumber and marinated with sweet Vidalia onion. Accompanied by crunchy sourdough, the olive oil from California arbequina olives provided the perfect complement of acidity.
As in other previous state dinners, beef was once again the ingredient of honor for the main course. In this case, ribs marinated first and then gently smoked over fruit wood, accompanied “in the best combination of both worlds,” according to the chef, by lobster poached in butter and seasoned with citrus-scented butter. All this, on a bed of sweet corn puree, kale and turnips, zucchini and roasted sweet potatoes.
![The dessert: white chocolate basket filled with nectarine cream, banana ganache and berries and peach, with shavings of caramelized lemon peel.](https://imagenes.elpais.com/resizer/v2/WC5P4CDDHCLZQXR76N7YQMCACA.jpg?auth=5e5f1206c288af5ac0d44dcf5313f808e6fdc8955fdcc418b73c80a313607c29&width=414)
The dessert, prepared by the chef specializing in White House sweet dishes, Susie Morrison, was a white chocolate basket filled with nectarine cream, banana ganache and berries and peach, with shavings of caramelized lemon peel. The presentation was crowned by a white chocolate medallion with the American and Kenyan flags, decorated with violets and orange marmalade.
The wines, as is customary, were purely American: a 2021 chardonnay, a 2019 pinot noir, and a 2020 brut.
“As guests leave, walking the moonlit path of all of us, I hope they feel welcomed with the same warmth that I have felt on my trips to Kenya,” said Jill Biden.
The president in turn reiterated the messages of friendship and unity. “We share enormous respect for the history that connects us… we don’t share borders, but we share ideals. We share a belief in freedom, democracy, dignity and equality,” he declared, in his toast during dinner.
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