An arsenal of beauty tools with draining, firming and detoxifying properties abound on social networks. You just have to spend enough time on TikTok or Instagram to come across someone scraping their jaw with a stone or sliding a roller over their cheekbones. And although the gua sha phenomenon has thousands of years of history, they now take on countless forms and materials.
Massage beauty tools and devices are at their best. And, although most of us have to admit that we have gotten carried away by the trend and have a stone cooling in the refrigerator to relax our eyes on specific occasions, very few of us can remember the last time we used it. The question is, do they really depuff and sculpt the face? Skin care experts, with different opinions on the matter, analyze its real benefits.
The Dr. Sara Carrasco, dermatologist at GEDET and owner of her own clinic in Bilbao speaks clearly “skin aging occurs due to the decline of its cells, and no massage is capable of reversing that process. To produce real and sustained rejuvenation, it is necessary to act on the cell repair mechanisms and massaging the superficial layer of the skin is not going to achieve this objective.” But if the massage is performed with rollers or stones, is there any extra benefit? “It can be beneficial and promote lymphatic drainage; But to really benefit, the most important thing is the technique, both in direction and pressure, which must be adequate. Another interesting point is that these tools increase the time it takes to complete the routine and this helps the active ingredients penetrate better,” says Dr. Sara Carrasco.
What are massage stones?
Stones such as jade, rose quartz or black obsidian are used in rollers and gua shas for their supposed energetic properties. According to Estefanía Ferrer, chemical engineer and CEO and founder of LICO Cosmetics, “the term Gua Sha comes from Mandarin and means ‘scrape off the disease’. They are used with oils or creams to facilitate their sliding always in an upward direction to activate circulation, release muscle tension, stimulate lymphatic drainage and even increase collagen production. Although many attribute these benefits to them, we have not been able to find scientific evidence or studies that corroborate all of these properties. Sometimes, we have included them as a gift in some promotion, but more as a sensory bonus than for their anti-aging effect,” she says.
“Gua sha stones have their origin in China and are closely linked to ancient traditional medicine. In fact, they have been used for more than 2,000 years to treat the face and improve its vitality. From their origin until now they have always sought this objective” he explains. Raquel González, cosmetologist and technical director of Perricone MD. Dermatologist Sara Carrasco points out “the benefits of these tools are related to the relaxing act of carrying out a long, unhurried care routine aimed at facial drainage areas, but manual application of cosmetics can be just as effective. It is a dispensable object, but if you have it you can take advantage of it for its draining and relaxing effect.”
Can stones sculpt the face and jaw?
It is not easy to define the chin or eliminate the double chin, not even with cabin treatments, however, many massage stone users assure that with perseverance it is possible. “Just as in the gym we define muscles by repeating routines, on the face we can achieve this with certain product application gestures and with the help of gua shas that enhance areas such as the facial oval or cheekbones,” he says. to S Fashion Mireia Fernández, director of Omorovicza. “In the double chin, it can promote firmness and help redefine the facial oval a little if there is slight sagging without fat. When the double chin is due to an accumulation of fat, the procedures must be different,” says Raquel González. The experts consulted affirm that the use of stones and rollers is quite safe “if you use it and notice that the swelling of your face goes down to the point of seeing a difference in your jaw line, continue using it,” says esthetician Valeria Zimmermann of the lounge Curler.
The facialist Silvia Oliete, owner of the centers Blauceldone, He explains to us what he notices when he adds the stones to his massage. “The immediate effect is more “oxygenated” skin, which is what we call better irrigated, since the blood carries nutrients and oxygen to the skin, and therefore, it appears more fresh and vital, with fewer imperfections and less marked wrinkles and lines. And, of course, they deflate because the massage movements are designed to travel through the lymphatic drainage channels and reach the nodes. “I see many cases every day in which after using it, the face becomes deflated and this causes the definition of the contours instantly, even if it is temporary.”
As for other benefits, “in general, any type of massage helps promote circulation; But the fact that they reduce inflammation and dark circles is not always true. If the skin is inflamed, it is best not to activate it. Now, if you have congestion, which can cause a sensation of inflammation, stones can help because they promote drainage. Furthermore, applying it with a specific eye contour allows the area to be treated and decongested by the simple contact of the cold stone. Of course, you have to apply very little pressure on your eyes,” says Marta Agustí, director of Boutijour.
One of the most questioned properties is to promote and stimulate collagen production. “It all comes down to using them appropriately. Training the skin with upward movements provides more firmness and improves circulation and, as a consequence, can cause greater tissue activity that helps prevent cascades of collagen loss and new collagen is synthesized,” says Isabel Reverte, director of Ambari.
What material is better?
Rose quartz, jade, porcelain and even wood, which is better? “Stones are known for their ability to retain heat and cold, which can help relieve muscle tension and promote relaxation, while woods, due to their texture and smooth glide over the skin, are used more in draining therapies. “Natural stones like jade are naturally refreshing and do not need to be stored in the refrigerator,” he tells S Fashion Fernanda Silva, creator and founder of the method RoyalTouch.
The material is linked to resistance and the sensation of freshness. “At the definition level, the material does not matter much. In fact, there are great rollers and gua shas that are made of marble or jade, and others that are just as good that are made of ceramic. The important thing is their shape: the more serrated they are, the more we promote lymphatic drainage and they are ideal for faces that tend to become congested; However, the less serrated ones focus on firmness,” he adds to S Fashion Mireia Fernandez. Many people choose them for their spiritual and energetic qualities. “It is true that some people attribute mystical qualities to them that go beyond the m
aterial and tangible. In my case, I only look for its action as a massage tool and I like jade because, even if it is cold, it acquires the temperature of the skin as soon as they come into contact,” clarifies Silvia Oliete.
In any case, the material should not provide greater benefit or extra action. “While it is true that those made of quartz, jade or other rigid materials are usually small, if they are larger, it is better that they are made of wood because they are more flexible,” reasons Marta Agustí.
Rollers or gua sha?
Both tools are very similar because they use stones, but they are used differently. “Rollers reduce swelling, relax facial muscles and reduce stress on the skin. The gua sha stone provides a deeper massage that improves blood circulation, reduces inflammation, reduces swelling and can promote collagen production. It is used to lift and sculpt the face, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve the skin’s luminosity,” says Inmaculada Novillo Santos, Product Marketing You Are The princess.
Most experts advise that before starting it is important to learn the technique of use. “It is not possible to use it well if you do not know the steps to follow, how much pressure to apply and what is the correct direction to follow on each part of the face. If we use it every day, we will achieve more and better results,” says Silvia Oliete. As for technique, Inmaculada Novillo recommends rolling over the skin in an upward and outward motion to reduce swelling and promote relaxation. In contrast, gua sha relies more on scraping along the skin with gentle pressure while holding the stone at an angle to promote lymphatic drainage. And be careful. A good drainage massage with stones can last about 30 minutes.
Raquel González assures that, although it is a safe and gentle practice with calming effects, technique matters. “On the forehead, start from the center towards the temples, to release toxins. In the eye area, it eliminates congestion by applying pressure to the arch of the eyebrow, from the center of the forehead to the temple. At the bottom, it goes from the inner eye area towards the temple again. On the cheeks, it works in an upward and outward direction, from nose to temple, to release toxins and lift the tissue. And on the jaw line it moves from the chin to the earlobes. To enhance drainage in the neck area, move gently from the shoulders and collarbone to the jaw and to the area behind the ears.” And of course, after use they must be cleaned with soap and water to avoid the accumulation of bacteria.
Who should not use massage tools?
If learning the massage technique is essential, “the most important thing is to apply light pressure because heavy movements can damage the delicate capillaries of the face or cause bruising,” explains Zimmermann. While these tools are generally safe, there are situations where they should be avoided. “The general rule includes not using them on skin with a high degree of acne, very sensitive or active rosacea, or when the complexion is inflamed by any procedure until it recovers,” says Oliete. “If they are not used well, it can range from not seeing any type of result to achieving the opposite effect to what is desired: greater inflammation and a more sagging face,” concludes Ana Yuste, facial consultant at Pure Niche Lab.
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