Autumn is a time of change and transformation that many nature lovers take advantage of to escape from routine and go to rural places marked by unique landscapes drawn with the colors of this time. Among all the destinations available, its forests and natural parks stand out, without a doubt.
And like every year this is the time in which Castilla y León stands out the most for places such as the Faedo de Ciñera beech forest, considered the most well-kept centenary forest in all of Spain, title that he obtained in 2007 from the Ministry of the Environment and the NGO Bosques Sin Fronteras. Since that moment, tourism has intensified, attracted by efforts to preserve this natural area.
Just 40 kilometers from the provincial capital, the beech forest is located in the town of Ciñera de Gordón. Not only is it one of the most beautiful places in the community, but its magic and legends have made this place a charming destination for an autumn getaway.
With its twisted trunks, changing colors and sweeping trails, the Faedo is especially captivating when its leaves turn shades of red, gold and brown.
The forest has several routes to immerse yourself in its special atmosphere. The most famous is the one that connects Ciñera de Gordón with Villar del Puerto, a path of approximately 3.5 kilometers (one way) that meanders through the interior of the forest, surrounded by tall trees and dense vegetation. Along the trail, you can find wooden walkways and small bridges that facilitate passage through especially leafy or humid areas. The route is relatively easy for all levels of hikers, allowing you to enjoy it at a leisurely pace and appreciate every corner.
However, what stands out most about Faedo de Ciñera is its century-old beech tree known as Fagus, which has become an emblem of the place. This enormous beech, believed to be between 500 and 600 years old, is one of the oldest specimens in the forest. Furthermore, the place is steeped in legends that evoke an even more mysterious aura. Among all of them, that of the witch Haeda stands out, who lived in the place doing evil.
One very cold night the witch found a family that could not take shelter. Contrary to his nature, Haeda took pity on them and tore some stones from the mountains to set them on fire. The witch’s altruistic action, which clashed head-on with her nature, ended up taking its toll on her and that is why she began to waste away little by little.
With his fate now sealed he retreated into the heart of Faedo, where he turned the nearby mountains into a very rich source of coal.. This myth would explain the prosperity of the place.
The town of Ciñera de Gordon
It is the closest town, a small urban center with a lot of charm, famous for its mining tradition and its proximity to the Faedo. The town, located in the municipality of La Pola de Gordón, offers basic services and a welcoming atmosphere for visitors looking to rest after visiting the forest. In Ciñera you can also learn more about the history of the region and its connection with coal mining, as well as enjoy the local hospitality in bars and restaurants where you can enjoy typical dishes from the Leonese region.
How to get to the Faedo de Ciñera
To get there from León take the N-630 towards Oviedo. About 30 kilometers north of the city, there is the detour to Ciñera de Gordón, which is well signposted. From the center of the town, there are indications that lead to the entrance to the beech forest, where the route that connects Ciñera with Villar del Puerto begins. Access is simple and allows visitors to enjoy a unique natural experience less than an hour’s drive from the provincial capital.
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