Thursday, June 22, 2023, 00:48
One of my fetish places, to which I have to return from time to time, which transmits peace, serenity and positive energy. It is the Priorat, in the interior of Tarragona, near Reus, it was chosen by the Cistercian monks to be “close to God” in the Cartoixa d’Escaladei. Today it corresponds to one of the most prestigious denominations of origin, the only one qualified along with Rioja. The denomination only includes soils formed by licorella, a decomposed slate with iron oxide that steepens on slopes of 40 and 45 degrees and makes the cultivation of the vines very difficult, making it artisanal. In Priorat they started bottling a small team of great promises led by Álvaro Palacios, Daphne Glorian, René Barbier, Sara Pérez and her father José Luis, Carles Pastrana… and they all vivified together, although each one put their own label. The wines were a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and the local varieties garnatxa and samsó. A lot of extraction, wood, high concentration and maturity.
As of 2016, people begin to talk about freshness, lightness and textures without losing their identity, and things continue. Clos Cypres comes from a vineyard planted in 1934, facing south, which is actually the ‘south face’ of l’Ermita (garnatxa facing north). This wine contains samsó –cariñena–, a somewhat more austere variety, we could say timid and quiet at first, with a delicacy and elegance that captivates as it is discovered, until you fall in love with it.
We are in Bellmnunt de Priorat and this vineyard is something out of the ordinary. Like all Priorat, this one also went through stages. From the first new barrels, the best in theory, they moved on to used barrels to try to highlight the great work done in the vineyard and the great quality of the grapes, moving on to biodynamic cultivation, increasingly lighter extractions, becoming infusions, passing through amphoras, used barrels and now only the vineyard speaks, almost a hundred years old and in top form, increasingly fine, elegant and delicate, combining power, structure and the character of that unique and magical soil.
On the nose it shows thyme and rosemary flowers, with hints of lavender and aniseed and a hint of pine resin. Due to water stress, smoky notes and mineral background appear and a parade of fresh black fruits, followed by spicy and sweet spices. On the palate it is seductive, frank, austere, with an elegant, intense and ripe tannin, tamed, a sensation of freshness and an uncontrolled power that never ends, and invites you to continue drinking unconsciously. A good accompaniment to a grilled pigeon, a Wellington sirloin, a duck rice or a rabbit stew, although it would not go wrong with a grilled tuna belly or a glazed parpatana. A pleasure to enjoy this wine at a very reasonable price, within everyone’s reach on a somewhat special occasion. The collection hardly ever exceeds 1,200 bottles, since the parcel is what it is and cannot be expanded. A great option that you have to try at least once in your life.
Stone curlew 2022 5 ants
A wine from the Llanos del Cagitán, where the Pino de las Águilas (the largest Aleppo pine in the world) is located, which gives its name to this plot, located in the municipality of Mula. A monastrell in its purest form. One of the labels of this young group that is positioned as a clear candidate for an enjoyable, fruity, fresh and youthful wine without losing its identity. The 2022 vintage is a great qualitative leap. The team has already understood the estate and the style they want to print, and we found a perfect wine for these warm days ahead, at a more than competitive price. To open without fear and enjoy at summer gatherings, accompanying rice, grilled meat or grilled fish.
Cellar: Curlew 2022. Variety: Monastrell. Zone: Mule. Price: 16 euros.
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