L’Oréal Groupe’s reconstructed human skin renews the cruelty-free industry

The figures on animal testing are heartbreaking. According to Humane Society Internationalthere are more than half a million animals that die every year due to cosmetic experiments. As of June 2024, more than 40 countries have passed laws prohibiting the use of species in dermatological and pharmacological tests.

In the first quarter of the 20th century, the industry was forced to experiment on animals after an unfortunate case in which a woman was blinded by using defective mascara. Approval of in-kind testing came into effect in 1938, approved by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and was included that same year in the Federal Drug and Cosmetic Act. Countries around the world followed suit, so for a product to be put on sale, it had to involve rigorous toxicity analysis of the components. Makeup, beauty products, and various personal items were now safe for humans, at the cost of animal abuse. Non-profit organizations and global activists, such as People for Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA, for its acronym in English) promoted ‘anti-testing’ movements, leading to critical dialogue about the principles of the Three Rs: reduction, refinement and replacement, a test to “minimize” the use of animals or, alternatively, experiment “humanly”.

Therefore, the existence of alternative methods to the use of animal species in the development of products is a priority and a fundamental step to achieve the sustainability objectives agreed upon by the UN.

Replacing animal testing

Since 1989, L’Oréal has not tested on animals; 14 years before being considered an official requirement by the European Union, whose final regulation was made in 2003. In 1979, EpiSkin created the first model of reconstructed human epidermis. By 1997, the skin model included Langerhans cells, which are found in the epidermis, making them useful for the evaluation of corrosion in the skin.

EpiSkin has become a world leader in tissue engineering, benefiting sectors beyond cosmetics, such as the toy industry, school supplies, pharmaceuticals, medical devices and agrochemicals, by developing ethical and safety testing. effective for decision making during the research phases. As part of L’Oréal Groupe, EpiSkin creates advanced models of reconstructed human skin in vitro; a unique cell culture process that allows the mass production of tissues with histological, functional and structural characteristics.

“The EpiSkin technique was born in Lyon and being able to bring it to Latin America was a challenge. A technician and I traveled from Brazil to France for training on the skin. Upon arriving at the Research and Innovation Center (R&I) in Rio de Janeiro we set out to work together with our Parisian colleagues, who reviewed our processes in the production of reconstructed skin. We can say that animal testing is a thing of the past and today we test most of the products exported to Latin America here in. Brazil,” Vanja Dakic, general director of EpiSkin Brazil, tells WIRED en Español.