The health of our hair is a measure of our overall health, and this includes not only our hair, but the hair of our eyebrows and eyelashes. Products to stimulate the growth of eyebrows and eyelashes have gained popularity in recent years, partly due to the desire to highlight these areas of the face and frame the look. The effectiveness of these products, however, largely depends on the active ingredients they contain, as well as individual factors such as genetics and the hair growth cycle.
Products for eyebrows and eyelashes
There are mainly two types of products for eyebrow and eyelash growth on the market: those that contain chemical compounds derived from prostaglandin analogues and those based on plant extracts and vitamins.
Prostaglandin analogues, such as bimatoprost or isopropyl cloprostenate, are compounds that were originally developed for the treatment of eye diseases, such as glaucoma. However, one of its side effects was the growth of eyelashes, which led to its use in cosmetics.
These compounds work by prolonging the anagen or growth phase of the hair follicle, which contributes to an increase in the length and, in some cases, the thickness of the hair. Some studies have found that bimatoprost products can significantly increase eyelash length over a period of 12 to 16 weeks. However, prolonged use can also have side effects, such as eye irritation, darkening of the skin in the application area and, in rare cases, changes in iris pigmentation.
On the other hand, there are products that are based on natural or less aggressive ingredients, such as peptides, amino acids, vitamins and vegetable oils. These ingredients do not directly stimulate hair growth like prostaglandins do, but instead seek to improve the conditions of the follicles for healthier growth.
For example, peptides such as copper tripeptide-1 can promote the synthesis of collagen and other structural components in the eyebrow and eyelash area, making the hair stay strong and less likely to fall out. Additionally, vitamins such as biotin and panthenol are included to improve the health of existing hair and optimize its growth cycle. However, evidence for the effectiveness of these ingredients on eyelash and eyebrow growth is limited and is mostly based on small-scale studies or theoretical properties of the ingredients.
Castor oil, a commonly used natural product, has long been associated with hair growth, although scientific studies supporting its effectiveness on eyebrows and eyelashes are scarce. This oil contains ricinoleic acid, which may have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, creating a favorable environment for hair growth. However, it does not directly stimulate the follicle in the same way as prostaglandin analogs.
In general, eyelash and eyebrow growth products usually come in serum or gel form in small containers with precision applicators, similar to those of a liquid eyeliner or mascara. The recommended way of use is to apply a small amount to the lash line or directly to the eyebrows, usually once a day, in the evening. Nighttime application allows the product to act while the skin rests and minimizes the risk of accidental contact with the eyes.
It is advised that the area be clean and dry before application to ensure better absorption. It is important not to exceed the recommended amount, as an excess of product can increase the risk of side effects, and avoid touching other areas of the face, to prevent dispersion of the serum outside the desired area.
Beware of side effects
The side effects of prostaglandin analogues at the molecular level are due to their action on specific prostaglandin receptors, known as FP receptors, present on various cell types in the skin and ocular tissues.
These compounds mimic the action of natural prostaglandins, which regulate processes such as inflammation and pigmentation. By activating these receptors in hair follicle cells, prostaglandins prolong the hair growth phase, but they can also trigger unwanted responses.
For example, activation of receptors in melanocytes (the cells responsible for pigmentation) can darken both the skin in the application area and, in some cases, the iris. Furthermore, as they are molecules that also influence vasodilation and the inflammatory response, they can cause redness, inflammation and pigmentation changes in sensitive tissues such as the eyelids and conjunctiva of the eye.
Another side effect of prostaglandin analogues, known for their use in the treatment of glaucoma, is the atrophy of periorbital fat, that is, the loss of the fat that fills the eyelashes, which can give the appearance of sunken eyes
Natural products, although safer, do not have the same support in terms of effectiveness in growth, and their main function is to improve the health of existing hair. The choice between one product or another will depend on the user’s expectations and level of commitment, since natural products usually require prolonged use and do not always offer visible results in the short term.
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