A panettone as the culmination of an Italian-style meal was the starting signal that guided the French master perfumer Olivier Cresp in the creation of one of his latest fragrances: “I was in a restaurant with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana and after having tried their Favorite dishes brought this sweet to the table. It was at that moment when I knew I wanted to translate its aroma into a perfume. It was a crazy idea, but the designer couple takes risks and so do I,” confesses with a smile the nose behind the new eau de parfum Devotion.
Conceived as an expression of the brand's DNA, this is the first fragrance born within the new beauty of Dolce & Gabbana. It is the germ of a new chapter that started in 2021, when the license that the group had with Shiseido ended and the Italians opted to assume direct control of production, distribution, sales and business strategy. “Everything was executed in six months, a record time,” proudly points out Gianluca Toniolo, who left the LVMH group in Paris to take charge of the internationalization of the company's newly created division from Milan. This thus becomes the first major fashion house in its country to take on cosmetics and perfumery from within. It is a trend in the sector and conglomerates such as the French Kering (Saint Laurent or Balenciaga) are already planning the same movement.
At the moment, Dolce & Gabbana's objectives, which focus on brand building, are placed on makeup and fragrances. They have debuted with Devotion, proof of the label's new direction, where beauty is connected with fashion. With the symbol of the sacred heart on the bottle, it follows the trail of the creative production of the firm behind the iconic bag recognizable by also carrying the sign of unlimited love on the closure.
The fragrance, presented through a campaign with Katy Perry, is luminous and gourmand. “It's sweet, daring and completely new because it's not sticky,” says Cresp. The nose has captured the quintessence of Italianness in an olfactory creation in which there is no shortage of contrasts “between lemon and orange, which are sparkling and fresh, with the sensuality of vanilla,” says Cresp, who had the freedom to develop his new composition. “That is something that rarely happens in large groups, since most of the time it is based on studies of marketing and with the ideas received the fragrance is composed. That never works. With Devotion, I started from the original idea of panetone, the rest of the perfume came out logically,” says this specialist in creating careful, delicate and timeless aromas. His relationship with the label goes back a long way, in 2001 he conceived his successful Light Blue, which today is for many a scent synonymous with summer. The always intuitive Cresp recognizes the importance of distinguishing oneself: “One idea a year is enough, as long as it is the best,” he says with an ironic smile.
Along with the fragrance has also arrived the makeup, which has for the moment materialized in a highlighter, mascara and liquid lipsticks in various shades. “They are an appetizer of what we will show in 2024,” says Toniolo, who in the coming months wants to reach 100 references and triple them in 2025; For this he has already hired the makeup artist Celine Bernaerts. “We have an aggressive plan for 2023, which will continue in 2024, with the goal of renewing almost 80% of the existing catalog. “We will relaunch the makeup line and 2025 will be the year of skincare, continuing our lifestyle focus.”
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