Is the tuxedo the new new masculinity? Have superstars tired of being original at all costs and carrying on their shoulders the mission of breaking down gender stereotypes? The return to sobriety of the men's wardrobe in that special subcategory that is the red carpet could demonstrate that there is also a rebound effect when it comes to dressing. Thus, in the same way that certain diets have the opposite effect on the body after the novelty of the first weeks, the trends of color and extravagance championed by the most famous men in Hollywood could be losing that surprise effect and have led to a return to the more traditional canons of men's fashion.
In other words: today the irreverent thing would be to opt for sobriety, of course, taking care of the smallest detail and diluting the border between the feminine and the masculine through small details: a shirt with a bow, some leather gloves, a semi-transparent blouse , an XL flower on the lapel. An achievement, that of overcoming these barriers, that has been difficult to achieve and for which there should be no turning back. For Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Valentino, “it's about showing your fragility, your intimacy, your tenderness,” as he stated in an interview with GQ, in which he stated after his men's show presented in June 2023 that “you can be assertive even if you don't follow the rules. For centuries, being a man has meant following the laws of society. You couldn't show your intimacy, nor your vulnerability. And I think that there is no freedom or power in that.”
In that sense, it could be said that men have achieved that freedom and power to choose what they like in women's fashion and incorporate it into their own wardrobe. A balance that recovers traditional tailored suits to give them a new dimension, as suggested by the first big red carpet of the year, the Golden Globes. It is the conclusion that emerges after taking a look at what has been the first big red carpet of the year, the Golden Globes. Some of the men of the moment gathered there and, with few exceptions (Barry Keoghan in Vuitton red, for example, or Pedro Pascal with a sling and black sweater covered in white Bottega appliqués Veneta), most of them left us outfits that reminded us of those times when Harry Styles was just an aspiring star in X Factor and not the world ambassador of genderfluid in dressing.
At that time, red carpets were, for many, a smooth event when it came to men's fashion. The greatest daring thing was to wear sneakers and combine them with a tuxedo. An act of rebellion that, like so many others, has been swallowed by the masses after the initial astonishment.
Jeremy Allen White is the name that has been making headlines and covers lately. His recent success with the series The Bear has positioned him as the most desired man on the planet, a status confirmed by the latest Calvin Klein campaign. This brand has been, as expected, in charge of signing its style for the red carpet of the Golden Globes. Also predictable was the minimalist aesthetic reminiscent of the nineties for which the American brand is famous. This simplified red carpet aesthetic that the most famous fictional chef on television usually uses positions him as the greatest reference of this new trend of smooth fashion: let's not forget that he is the man who has made the white t-shirt back in fashion. Cillian Murphy also wore a tuxedo, this one by Yves Saint Laurent, although without a bow tie. The other big man in a classic tuxedo? Bradley Cooper, double-breasted jacket, satin lapels and the best company that a classic man can bring to a red carpet and elevates him directly to the altars of tender gallantry: his mother.
Timothée Chalamet, Harry Styles' great companion on the mission to revolutionize men's wardrobes around the world, could have joined this classicist trend, judging by his choice on the red carpet. His rhinestone tuxedo jacket signed by Celine was the most daring thing the protagonist of Wonka that night. A trifle if we compare it with some of her most famous outfits from the past, such as the top backless satin dress she wore at the 2022 Venice Film Festival or, more recently, the mauve Prada leather jumpsuit she chose for the world tour of her latest premiere.
Jared Leto has been another of the men who has led this revolution in men's fashion and who now seems to have tired of the most difficult one yet. A change that could have been influenced by the departure of Alessandro Michele from Gucci, architect of the artist's androgynous, ironic and baroque aesthetic of recent times, and his replacement by Sabato di Sarno, a Neapolitan with more austere tastes. Since then Leto has been seen wearing Givenchy garments in which black and white prevails, the perfect tuxedo jackets and seventies-influenced pants.
Jacob Elordi is also part of that exclusive and small group of names that everyone expects to see on a red carpet and that could also point in this new direction in which classic suits and the commitment to more traditional formulas would begin to become the rule. A rule that does not remove so that we see certain concessions that give vidilla to these events, such as a transparent shirt, oversized lapels, ankle boots with a slight heel or an impressive piece of jewelry. Small details that remind us that we are facing an exceptional event and that men's fashion is no longer what it was. This could be, therefore, the natural evolution of the new masculinity: recovering the best of the great masculine renunciation without giving up the new terrain conquered in terms of materials and silhouettes. Ultimately, staying with the best of both worlds.
It is something that new generations have internalized without effort, as Harry Lambert – stylist of Harry Styles, Josh O'Connor and Eddie Redmayne, among others – reflected in a magazine interview W: “Now there is a new perspective on fashion and gender. When I grew up in the nineties, if you were interested in fashion it meant you were gay, it was an automatic association. For the new generations, fashion simply means that you are interested in the way you present yourself to others,” and he added in another statement. collected by XL Weekly: “More and more men are joining the bandwagon of opening their closet to options traditionally related to feminine tastes: the color pink, feathers, pearls… And all this without losing even a bit of their attractiveness as 'handsome.' officers.”
A trend confirmed by the men's collections for spring-summer 2024 in which the jacket and trouser suit regains its prominence, but is presented by varying its silhouette, making it more fluid and shiny, as in the case of Giorgio Armani, combining the more formal pants with transparent polka dot blouses or adorning them with large flowers, as we see in Dolce & Gabbana, inspired by versions vintage to then give them a contemporary touch, as Givenchy proposes, or insisting on changing long pants for Bermuda shorts and the firm intention of showing more skin, according to Jonathan Anderson or Zegna. This balance between the fashion of both genders thus seems to have found its place in the men's wardrobe in a more natural and serene way and the most stylish men on the planet are already beginning to demonstrate all their possibilities.
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