A bar where wine takes center stage, leaving beer in the background. This is the time for wine bars in São Paulo. From traditional Bardegawhich introduced the concept of multiple labels served in glasses in 2012, to the recently opened Boteco Winewhich opened its doors four months ago on Rua dos Pinheiros. The west zone neighborhood, in fact, is one of the main strongholds of these establishments, housing the famous Headquarters 261the Canaille and one of the units of the Vino!. From sophisticated environments to more casual spaces, aimed at both those who understand wine and those who are just starting out, the capital of São Paulo already has more than 15 establishments dedicated to the drink, which have gained space especially during “happy hour”.
It wasn’t always like this. THE businessman Rafael Ilan opened Bardega in Itaim Bibi (Rua Dr. Alceu de Campos Rodrigues, 218) in November 2012, when, as the expression goes, “everything was still bush”. “At the time, the boom was craft beer,” Ilan told DINHEIRO. The idea for the bar came after a trip to the United States, where he met a place with enomatic and decided to import the concept to Brazil. It is an automatic machine that serves wine in glasses in different dosages and uses argon or nitrogen gas in the bottle to prevent the wine from coming into contact with oxygen, maintaining its quality even after opening..
Today, Bardega has 96 labels distributed across 12 machines, each with 8 bottles, organized by style, which intensify as the customer walks down the aisle — a true showcase of flavors. The first are white and rosé wines, until reaching the full-bodied ones. The service is interactive: the customer receives an individual command that, when inserted into the machine, allows them to choose the wine and the desired quantity: 30 ml, 60 ml or 120 ml, with prices starting at R$5 per dose. In addition, two sommeliers are available to guide customers, and the menu offers several options for starters and dishes to share.
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More than a decade later, Bardega’s landscape has changed significantly. Internally, national wines began to gain prominence, and the bar currently offers seven labels and two Brazilian sparkling wines. In the foreign market, competition grew as a reflection of the sector itself. According to Wine Intelligence, Brazil already occupies 14th position in the ranking of the largest wine markets in the world. Thus, wine consumption became more democratic and took to the streets of São Paulo.
Among the various proposals, the Sede 261, led by sommelières Daniela Bravin and Cassia Campos. The wine bar operates out of a garage door at Rua Benjamin Egas, 261, in Pinheiros, where customers sit on beach chairs on the sidewalk. The place draws attention not only for its relaxed atmosphere, but also for the high turnover of labels.
Another highlight is the Vino!located at Rua Fradique Coutinho, 47, which offers around 300 labels served in bottles and glasses. On the menu, there are wine suggestions to pair with each dish. The chain has seven other units in the city.
Among the newcomers, the Wine at Boteco, led by restaurateur Daniela Ferigatohas aroused public curiosity at Rua dos Pinheiros, 578. With a laid-back tavern-style atmosphere, decorated with plants and pictures of cats, Ferigato told DINHEIRO that “the establishment was created with the aim of demystifying the aristocratic behavior of those who drink wine and creating an inviting environment for those who pass by”.
The initial wine list, divided into whites, champagnes, sparkling wines and cavas, rosés and the most exotic, featured around 80 labels and seven wine glass options, which harmonized with a lean menu.. With success, new wines were incorporated. This Thursday (26), a new menu will be launched. In addition to the almost 100 labels, the owner’s big bet for the end of the year is “Judite’s Pizza”, a family recipe from the Ferrara region, in Italy. A spoiler: the second Wine unit at Boteco is coming at the beginning of 2025. However, Ferigato still keeps the new address a secret.
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