In Spain we use saffron in paella, coloring in rice, pepper and salt for any dressing, and paprika, from La Vera, in sauces such as brava. Our spice rack does not leave out powdered nutmeg for the bechamel, thyme and rosemary to flavor the meats, and cinnamon and vanilla for the desserts. We store spices in the worst possible place and live with the belief that they never expire. In conclusion, “we know very little about spices, we treat them badly and cook them worse,” he confesses. Juliana Perpen (Yuli, as they know and call her) author of the book The Flavor of Spices. Everything you need to know how to transform your dishes (Dome Books).
“Their biggest detractors, defenders of the natural flavor of foods with no more seasoning than perhaps a good oil or a little salt, miss out on a whole range of possibilities, of infinite combinations that throughout the history of humanity have left behind. of itself a gastronomic legacy that is still alive.” The book has just arrived in bookstores as a lifesaver for those who seek flavor in their daily recipe book or for those who want to go further in the kitchen. A small work that contains a great encyclopedia about the world of spices.
Usually, the spice books that we receive are translations from British authors, but, in this case, a woman from La Línea (Cádiz) is the one who signs the latest news on this subject. “My passion for spices comes from a very young age. I did not grow up in a typical Andalusian family. The first recipe I learned from my mother was sweet and sour pork and my father was a curry lover… Then I lived in London for five years. So, for me, the use of spices is normal. When I returned to Spain, I found a Madrid without spice stores either in the markets or in the neighborhoods. I complained about it all the time until one day I told myself, well if there isn’t one, you open it yourself. That’s how I did it.”
In 2009 he opened a small store in the Malasaña neighborhood, Spicy Yuliwhich in a few years would become a place of worship for chefs, cooks and gourmets. “I’m very clueless and the topic of influencers or wanting to be an Instagram star, I take it terribly, so I’m not one of those who take photos with celebrities. For me all my clients are the same. He was shopping at my Ottolenghi store and I didn’t even realize. Then, when his book was published Jerusalem (Editorial Salamandra) put me in the thanks. This is my satisfaction: sharing, chatting, going deeper with everyone who comes to my house, whoever they are.”
Yuli Perpén’s book is a round trip ticket with stops in Türkiye, India, Colombia, Ethiopia and Sri Lanka; an invitation to discover the saffron fields of Spain and Iran, the vanilla and Cardamom plantations of Madagascar and to calmly explore the history of humanity told from the spice rack. “We need to know why, where the ingredients we use come from and dare to try new things. But this only happens if you know what they are, where they come from and how to apply them to cooking.” This is this little encyclopedia of spice knowledge. A ‘from A to Z’ where you can let yourself be carried away by history.
In this way you discover that star anise (possibly one of the most beautiful spices) keeps bright seeds called badian or badiana in the center of its eight points. And for many centuries it was believed that this fruit, originally from China, gave wealth and prosperity. Or that behind that flower that never bloomed, dark and dry like the nail, hides a story that is sometimes bloody and other times pleasurable. Or that thyme was born from the tears of Helen of Troy and that its consumption was believed to grant courage and strength.
Two most essential works
Along with this new publication, there are two other cult books about the world of spices: The Book of Spices. From anise to sumac (Debate), by the magazine’s food critic Time OutJohn O’Connell. “I wanted to give each spice an idea of its botanical background,” the author wrote at the beginning of his book, “its historical context and, where appropriate, its culinary use.” Thus, the book begins with the A for Annatto and its history linked to Napoleon II and ends with a splendid guide to spice mixtures where you learn things like how many ingredients a curry has or what the formula is to prepare Zaatar at home.
and the book, Speciariumedited by Librooks and written by Caz Hildebrand. The first edition of this book came out in 2017 in order to bring a little wisdom to our cupboard, “the story of spices is a story of seduction, mythology, bloodshed, romantic loves and clichés,” wrote the author. All this knowledge is accompanied in this book with some beautiful illustrations taken from the book. The Grammar of Ornament by Owen Jones (Taschen). At the end of this you will find a glossary for everyday spices: from which spice is best for which vegetables, to which are the most bitter, pungent or earthy.
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