Three states on the west coast of the United States produce excellent wines: California, Oregon and Washington. With over 75 years of history, the Ste. Michelle group is the only one with vineyards and wineries in the three. In Washington, with Chateau Ste. Michelle; in Oregon with Erath Winery, and in California with the legendary Steags’ Leap Wine Cellars. Now, part of the best that can be expected from North American wines is in the portfolio of the importer Grand Cru, which already brings to Brazil the award-winning Paul Hobbs Winery labels. On Wednesday (6), an online tasting presented four of the 11 wines that make up the Ste. Michelle group catalog to the specialized press. The experience of tasting each of them proves that they are true masterpieces. Each in its own way, all are made with the most sophisticated of the US wine industry – and with characteristics that combine the best of the new world (fruit, potency, tension) and the old (elegance, softness, balance). True miracles, as befits those who adopted a holy name when entering the world of wine, but with a touch of daring that translates into the unusual choice of the name Steags’ Leap: deer jump.
The only white of the selection presented, the Eroica Riesling (R$ 317.90) is the result of work of two of the largest producers of this variety in the world: Dr Loosen, in Germany, and Ste. Michelle, in Washington. The harvest is at night, at low temperatures, to preserve the citrus aromas (lime and tangerine) and the mineral acidity characteristic of the variety. Fish, including raw, seafood and light cheeses are the ideal accompaniment.
Going to reds, Erath 2018 Pinot Noir (R$264.90) synthesizes the qualities that this variety achieves in Oregon, where it adapted perfectly. With soft tannins, it brings fruits such as plums, cherries and blackcurrants to the nose. You can escort a baked salmon, funghi risotto or soft cheeses. Much more structured, Chateau Ste. Michelle Throwback Cabernet Sauvignon (R$ 200.90) takes 89% of the grapes indicated on the label, with 7% of Syrah and small portions of other grapes, inoculated with various yeast strains to maximize complexity. A period of 18 months in American and French oak (only 14% of first use) makes the wine very balanced, without exaggeration of roasting, smoked or tobacco notes.
Icon of the Napa Valley ever since it surpassed some of Bordeaux’s premier crus at the famous Judgment of Paris, in 1976, the Steags’ Leap winery is among the best in California, with labels that reach Brazil well above R$1,000. That’s why the Hands Of Time Red Blend (R$592.90), with 71% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot. He is gone described as “an iron fist in a velvet glove”, an expression that tries to convey the perfect balance between the smoothness and structure of this violet colored wine with blackberry and blueberry aroma punctuated by peppery notes. In the mouth, its medium body reveals a touch of dark chocolate that makes it spectacular to be enjoyed without the accompaniment of any dish. If served at the table, it can grow even more with pasta and meat.
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