In the name of the fashion creator who helped liberate women, imbuing them with the power of garments, fabrics and prerogatives of the male wardrobe, there are now men too who proclaim their freedom to dress. The issue has more to do with an assault on power, the conquest of the last bastion of luxury that has always resisted them, than with the back-and-forth identity deconstruction or gender disruption, although, whatever the case, it cannot be more paradoxical.
A turn of events that Gabrielle Chanel would never have suspected, she, who only blamed them if she could take advantage of them, at least in terms of clothing. That the couture house that she established in 1910, the watchword for a century of empowered feminine elegance, ended up becoming an unusual destination for gentlemen is something that she has always tried to avoid from the brand itself. But the sign of the times has not only reached her fully, but it has also hit her where it hurts the most. Men who love suits made for women are clamoring for the headlines today in view of the increasingly large and noticeable presence of ambassadors of the brand and chanelized gentlemen in their shows. Even Greta Gerwig's Barbie Ken sports a Chanel ski jacket on her getaway to the real world.
“I wouldn't have understood it, I would have screamed to heaven,” notes Inmaculada Urrea regarding Mademoiselle's possible reaction to the male claim to her legacy. Author of Coco Chanel: The revolution of a style (Cita de Letras, 1997) and with a revealing biography of the creator in preparation, this fashion consultant, expert in branding, has license to speculate: “That she was a disruptor and broke all the rules of dress in her time, of course. Let's not forget that what was previously called unisex was advanced by her in 1918. However, regarding gender roles she had a very classic mentality, even ancient: women had to dress to please and seduce the opposite sex, she said. At the end of her days she ended up very angry because she lamented: 'Today women are more men than men.' For that matter, Urrea is also clear that the firm stopped caring a long time ago about the meaning of its founder, who barely uses Chanel's name. “If it didn't smack of a marketing operation, of pretending to be modern and relevant in a market in which image prevails over substance, it could even be considered a way of closing the circle,” she concludes. He is somewhat right: the Parisian couture house has never marketed men's collections, not even now. Although she has played the game of distraction.
On the catwalk, the Chanel man is actually old news. Karl Lagerfeld liked to bring it out at least in his fashion shows. The models helped give masculine packaging to the sports gadgets that then adorned the cruise collections, from rugby balls to paddle tennis rackets, through swimming mitts, cricket bats and even boomerangs. None of the clothes they wore in those shows were ever produced. At least not as such for men. The expectation, however, was served. So much so that, in 2017, the brand had to respond to rumors of a collaboration with Hedi Slimane, the creator through whom Lagerfeld had regained size S, determined to fit into his Dior Homme suits. “Chanel is not working on the launch of a men's collection,” they stated.
The agreement with Pharrell Williams did prosper after a couple of years, in a capsule that introduced the brand to the promised land of streetwear, a luxury version. An intimate of Lagerfeld, the singer, rapper and music producer—in charge of the creative direction of the Louis Vuitton men's collection last February—had worked his way shortly before by walking for the Métiers d'Art line and anticipated events with some customized sneakers via Adidas. From there to sneaking into the brand his particular clothing vision, one step, wearing the appropriate sports shoes, dressed in the usual sweatshirts and complemented with the singing jewelry in the style of hip hop. But, again, he lacked the courage to market her as masculine. The current display of fanny packs and sneakers in boutiques began there. Chanelmania among gentlemen, more or less, too.
In the beginning, it is said, it was Future, who dared to wear the gold link chains and strings of pearls with the crossed double C logo. Such a style caused a sensation in 2017, although it was not until 2019 when she was seen with a jacket adorned with sparkling brooches. Meanwhile, Usher was seen in the spring/summer 2017 fashion show, suitably chaneled. Then came Gunna, showing off on Instagram the graffiti bag belonging to the capsule in collaboration with Pharrell. Enough to cement the myth of the Chanelista male, reinforced by the practice of appointing male ambassadors established in the house since 2012, when Brad Pitt became the perfumed image of the emblematic No. 5. The musicians Sébastien Tellier, Nile Rodgers and the proclaimed king of k -pop G-Dragon hold the title, as do a handful of Chinese actors.
“When you have a brand with the impact of Chanel, so prominent, a bastion of women's fashion, and a man can suddenly reach for it, it's like the ultimate prize. Because all the guys are going to want it, even if they can't access it,” explained Bobby Wesley, rappers' go-to stylist, in an interview in GQ when the fever broke out, in 2019. To guys with fame and fortune like Maluma, Joe We only see Jonas, Kendrick Lamar, A$AP Rocky or Chris Rock wearing them at the usual party or the obligatory catwalk show organized by the brand.
So is there a real male Chanel consumer? Of course, there are the collectors, who treasure the classic tweed box jacket suits even if they are never going to wear them. Also, more and more, those who dare with bags. Although to find the true client/believer you have to go to Asia. Filipino Bryan Yambao, of blogger fame as Bryanboy, is surely the most prominent in terms of media presence. He owns 60 women's suits, coats and sweaters that he wears daily. “With Chanel I feel free,” the blogger once said. Better not to know what the fashion creator who helped liberate women by imbuing them with the power of men's clothing would say.
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