The cosmetic industry is one of the most powerful sectors in the world. Its unstoppable growth for 30 years, and the numerous releases and innovations that come to the market every year confirm this. Physical appearance has gained great importance in recent years, we all want to look good, and, in particular, we all want to delay the aging of our skin and maintain its health. In the search for that prolonged youth, beauty brands have made research their fundamental pillar to give the consumer the product they need. Innovation in cosmetics and the most notable trends in the sector were discussed in the third Beauty Innovation Summit that Shiseido EMEA celebrated in Lisbon.
News in cosmetic research
With 150 years of history, and a philosophy that fuses the best of the East and the West, Shiseido has achieved 31 ISCC awards (the most important in cosmetic science). The cosmetic group, number one in Asia and Japan, and number eight worldwide, has six research centers located in Japan, China, Singapore, France and the United States, where it is working to achieve new technologies that allow formulating more effective, more sustainable and more sensorial creams. Some of the most surprising innovations that the brand’s experts presented were these: a non-invasive technology that allows you to see the internal structure of the skin, a technology that evaluates the impact of walking posture on the skin or an app that analyzes the shape of the nose to diagnose skin problems.
Holistic beauty is another priority at Shiseido research centers, where they also have devices to measure the emotional impact that cosmetics havethrough heart rate, brain waves or the level of cortisol in saliva. The director of scientific communication at Shiseido EMEA and doctor of pharmacy, Nathalie Broussardwent so far as to assure that “emotions are an active ingredient. It is part of the effectiveness of the product.
Shiseido has 31 ISCC awards that recognize its research in cosmetics.
The best example of innovation at Shiseido is the Ultimune serum which has been 10 years old and has so far received 252 awards. In 2025 there will be a new formula for this product, of which one unit is sold every 17 seconds around the world. Ultimune is based on the skin’s immune system, one of the fields in which Shiseido has focused its research. «Our immune system not only helps us overcome diseases, but also aging. The goal in this field is to try to activate memory T cells so that they can fight against aging cells,” explained Nathalie Broussard.
The skin intelligence (its ability to distinguish between bad and good stimuli and respond to maintain the most optimal conditions) is another field of research for 40 years. In 2011, the cosmetic group revealed that skin cells were capable of detecting, analyzing and transmitting information, like the brain. This year the laboratories of Clé de Peau Beauté (one of the brands that are part of the Shiseido group) have reformulated their flagship product, The Serum, with a new technology derived from the Radiant Lily extract of France that, according to their studies, increases the sensory proteins of the skin, to boost its intelligence level. Smart skin is one that is able to face adversity to stay hydrated and radiant.
The Serum by Clé de Peau Beauté activates the skin’s intelligence, thanks to radiant lily extract.
Aesthetic medicine, source of inspiration
Shiseido is also looking towards aesthetic medicine to formulate more powerful creams. It has been 40 years since the firm created its first hyaluronic acid using biotechnology. In this way, the molecule was no longer reserved for medical use to become one of the most famous ingredients in the cosmetic industry. Now the firm has focused on techniques such as laser rejuvenation to be able to imitate its effects through a cream. The result has been the development of a technology (OxyShift) that focuses on the innate skin renewal and recovery mechanisms induced by hypoxia, which are normally only activated under stress conditions, such as laser treatment. With it they have reformulated the Bio-Performance Skin HIForce cream that maximizes the self-regeneration of the skin to fight against the passage of time.
On the line between aesthetic medicine and cosmetics is also one of the latest firms that have joined the group, Dr. Dennis Gross Skincarecreated by New York dermatologist Dennis Gross and which is inspired by the aesthetic treatments he performs in his office. The doctor explained his most innovative products: the Alpha Beta peelingLED light masks and the DermInfusions line.
Dr. Dennis Gross, Gallinée and Ulé are some of the most recent brands that Shiseido has added to its portfolio, which also includes, in addition to Shiseido itself, Clé de Peau Beauté and Drunk Elephant.
The skin is the third brain
Another field of research in which the Shiseido group is focused is microbiomethe millions of viruses, fungi and bacteria that inhabit our body. Lily Mijouina microbiome expert doctor at Shiseido, revealed one of the latest discoveries in this field: «last year we carried out a study on the impact of alcohol fragrances on the neck microbiome, surprisingly it was seen to recover quickly. Other research has found that certain fragrances can modulate skin bacteria, in other words, Fragrances can improve the quality and beauty of the skin, indirectly..
The relationship between the skin microbiome and stress, the gut-brain-skin axis, or how the microbiome is influenced by lifestyle and modified by age were other topics discussed. In 2022 Shiseido acquired the firm Gallinéecreated by the pharmaceutical company Marie Dragoand that offers treatments to take care of the microbiome from the inside to the outside. «When we are born the main bacteria that colonizes the skin is Lactobacillus, with age this bacteria decreases. Its role is essential in cell renewal, protecting us from photoaging, lack of hydration or luminosity in the skin. Maintaining lactobacillus is a good way to delay skin aging, and Gallinée’s new anti-aging serum aims precisely to recover these bacteria.
Sustainable development
Like many cosmetic companies, sustainability is another of the most important strategies for Shiseido. Alberto NoePresident and CEO of Shiseido EMEA, summed it up like this: “we want to reduce our impact on the environment, develop sustainable products and promote sustainable responsibility.” The group works on the transparency of product information, providing information on the origin of ingredients and their traceability, to increase consumer confidence. A good example is the brand Ulecreated in 2023 within the group, and formulated with active ingredients obtained from vertical crops grown on a B corp certified farm on the outskirts of Paris.
Preserve the marine ecosystem It is another of the great objectives. Since this year, Shiseido has supported the MARE (Marine Adventure for Research & Education) project, in which various researchers sail on a catamaran through the Mediterranean Sea, collecting and analyzing data to understand what is polluting its waters. The goal is to create much more respectful cosmetic formulas.
The cosmetic group chose Lisbon to hold this meeting where they shared their latest advances and launches.
The beauty of the future
Alberto Noe predicts a good future for the cosmetic sector. «The cosmetics industry will continue to grow in the coming years, because it is one of the few that has maintained sustained growth in the last 30 years. If we think about the products we used 20 years ago and those we use now, the needs have increased, and will continue to do so. In Europe there are 50% of women who only use one product currently. “You only have to look at Asia to know that the margin for growth is great.” The CEO of the EMEA region is aware that “artificial intelligence is going to accelerate changes and innovations. I believe that in 6 years we will be able to have a sunscreen that is completely safe for the environment.. We are also working on a totally biodegradable packaging». Nathalie Broussard is also optimistic: “I am quite confident in the future and maybe we will have a vaccine against aging».
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