Ssam means ‘wrapped’, we sometimes see it on letters as saam either säamand to understand each other we could define it as a kind of taco or wrap Korean. But in this Asian specialty there is no corn, wheat or other cereal tortilla, but rather a leaf that is usually lettuce, but could also be sesame, cabbage, shiso, Chinese cabbage or even seaweed. Said like this, it may sound like a more or less healthy preparation, and even bland, but what is placed on top of the green brings the magic. It is usually something of fish or meat, and their thing is to opt for a piece with some fat, so that there is that contrast between the fresh and the buttery that makes a bite irresistible.
Other peculiarities of this simple but addictive recipe is that the lettuce must always be crispy -that is why it is previously put in ice water-, it must be able to be eaten in one or two bites and it must be light but with a lot of flavor. The latter is not negotiable, it must cause an explosion on the palate. Sweet, salty, sour, spicy and umami: all flavors are invited to this party.
Where does this invention come from?
To find the origins of ssam we have to travel to Korea and go back to the era of the Goryeo dynasty (918–1392). At that time, it was mainly the maidens or ladies of the court who enjoyed a preparation that would have to wait until the end of the 19th century to be considered a traditional dish.
In the 20th century, it began to be very common in any family gathering, as it still is today. The Korean chef confirms it luke jangtanned in the kitchens of elBulli or Mugaritz and settled in Madrid for years, where he has the restaurant’s knives Luke. Few voices as authoritative as yours to talk about this snack: “I did my first ssam when I was three or four years old, it was a dish that we used to enjoy as a family when we were on the terrace enjoying a barbecue.”
When asked about the cultural roots of this appetizer, he discovers that the ssam They come to fulfill the function of our paella. “It’s a dish to cook and enjoy with your loved ones over the weekend, while you drink or talk about whatever you feel like with your people.” Which leads him to make a point to remember the main characteristics of the almost always healthy Korean cuisine: “60% of our cuisine is based on vegetables, in fact half of the elements that make up the ssam they are vegetables and the other half corresponds to the protein, which does not have to be animal”. That is, the door is open for ingredients like tofu or tempeh.
Fermentation is also basic in Korean cuisine. “When I was little and my mother didn’t have time to cook, we used to use pickled laminated turnips, which are sold already packaged, precisely to make ssam. You added rice and something else that was in the fridge, and you already had your lunch ready”.
A ssam for each diner
Although its execution seems very basic, there are different categories of ssam depending on the type of packaging we use to contain the meat or fish. From the Sangchu ssamthe most common in most restaurants and wrapped with lettuce, to the Baechu ssamin which the protein is wrapped in a Chinese cabbage leaf, passing through the Gimssam wrapped in algae, Gotgam ssam with dried persimmon, the Hobakip ssäm with pumpkin leaf, the kimchi ssamthe Eossam with fish fillet, Milssam with a wheat crêpe, the Muneo ssäm with octopus slices or the po’ssamwith beef.
Versatility would be the common denominator of all of them: in the words of this young Korean chef with a Repsol Sun and recommended by the Michelin Guide, “anything can be placed on top of the support, what will make the difference is that the product of above is of quality”. That is why it has become an extended trend beyond Asian kitchen spaces.
Its success is due to the fact that it is a fun dish, easy to share and that is also eaten with your hands. To this we should add that most people like lettuce and it does not usually generate controversy when ordering in a group, especially when it is accompanied by a tasty morsel with a pleasant texture and a powerful sauce.
Where to eat the best ssam from Madrid
Luke is a place of worship for those who years ago succumbed to the goodness of his ssam of Iberian bacon, replicated by many. “Since I opened my restaurant, it was always clear to me that ssam It would be on the menu, for me it is a very special dish. I decided to incorporate the Iberian pork because I consider it to be one of the most representative products of Spain, and it also perfectly withstands the texture and flavor of the dragon leaf”.
Jang tells us that very soon there will be a new ssam in his letter, with the steak as the protagonist. “It is a very popular cut of beef in the United States that stands out for its intense flavor and that in Korea we usually use for stewing. We cook it at a low temperature for 36 hours.” Now you have one more reason to come to this space located in the neighborhood of Las Salesas with Korean fusion cuisine as its flag.
Luke: c/ de Bárbara de Braganza, 2. Tel.: 662 675 576. Map
Tripea is a stall in the Vallehermoso Market where Roberto Martínez has been distributing edible -and drinkable- happiness for five years. He was one of the first to introduce the ssam in Madrid during his time in Nakeima, which led him to make different versions with wagyu, pickled oyster, Iberian jowl, mackerel or hake.
The Madrid chef’s first contact with this recipe, as with many others with Asian or Latin American influence, was thanks to his travels and books. That is why it is not surprising that he has opted for a dogfish ssäm in anticuchero marinade with green tomatillo and chipotle mayonnaise, which he himself defines as “the typical Andalusian frying cone but in the shape of ssam”. He has managed to include Peru, Mexico, Korea and Spain in a dish that has become one of the most acclaimed passes on his tasting menu.
Roberto is aware that this preparation is already beginning to be a trend, something with which he does not feel very comfortable either: “It seems that suddenly we are all obliged to have it on the menu, but I try to avoid this type of thing. It’s something personal, I prefer to distance myself from the currents. Something similar has also happened with ceviches, baos or tartare. They are dishes that you have to have lived very closely to be able to start working with them”.
Tripea: Vallehermoso Market, c/ de Vallehermoso, 36. Tel.: 918 286 947. Map.
A few meters from Madrid’s Gran Vía is Yakitoro, with chef Luis Ángel Pérez at the helm. His idyll with him ssam He also comes from afar: “The first one I did in Arriba, when I worked with Ramón Freixa. I seem to remember that he was from squid, but I’m not too sure”. He did not hesitate for a second to include a ssam that many will remember for what was his first personal project, after having passed through the kitchens of Aponiente or DiverXO.
“We had the Korean taco with Mexican dressing at Medea, which was nothing short of a ssam kimchi and honey glazed chicken with lime guacamole, spicy tomato and pico de gallo”. In case you are considering doing something similar at home, boning the chicken wings takes time, but it is essential for the ssam be ten. Currently, in this corner in which the embers are the protagonists, they serve a ssam grilled lemon fish with pickled onion in rice vinegar and fried onion.
Finally, the most traditional touch is provided by chef Saúl Sanz at Terzio, Treze’s little brother, both in Madrid. There they practice the game of contrasts that mixes something tender with something crunchier in its daring ssam by ear, which at the time was in Treze’s letter. “On other occasions we have worked with partridge and it has also been very well received by our customers,” says Saúl.
They also made the decision to start working with the ssam for its fun and carefree character, although the healthy point was also taken into account: “I see it as a different way of eating salad. The important thing, yes, is that the sauce you choose is not too liquid and tends more towards a dense texture, mayonnaise type, than anything else: we, for the partridge, use a reduction of Korean barbecue sauce (bulgogi)”.
Third: c/ del Gral. Pardiñas, 25. Tel.: 919 327 361. Map.
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