Since at the end of April or beginning of May the first Raise, tuna is worshiped in the kitchens of the Cadiz coast. A product that, despite being deeply rooted in the gastronomy of the South, until recently was prepared in very limited ways: in stews, with onions or tomato, always well cooked, preserved or salted. Cuts such as the parpatana, the or the morrillo were not as sought after as they are now -not even by a long shot-, which can currently outshine the sacrosanct.
Almadraberos and fishmongers affirm that it has been the Japanese who have taught them to treat this animal in new ways, and to get even more out of it. So now there is no lack of tatar, tatakis, sauces and dressings from the cuisine of other continents in the Cadiz menus, mixed with flavors that remind us that we are still in Cádiz. We have asked the finest snouts in the province where they eat their tuna without having to say goodbye to any of their kidneys to pay the bill.
BARBATE
One of the people who knows the most about eating in Cádiz is Pepe Monforte, journalist in the magazine thingsdecomé. So we turned to him to recommend us some of those charming and traditional places that he knows. He takes us to the Present or Abelardo Tavern. “It’s a ‘little chapel’, a tavern, which is located very close to the old Barbate fish market and where the fishermen went to have coffee before starting work,” says Monforte.
This tavern was founded by Abelardo Gandiaga in 1928 and was later run by his daughter Presentation, which is why some call it by the name of the founder and others by that of his daughter. Since 1995, the owners are María Román and Antonio Malia, grandson of the founder and nephew of Presenta. It’s a simple place, like the way they prepare tuna, but one that never fails: “Don’t expect any luxury,” warns Pepe. “The place is a bar and also with history and has a small terrace on the street. You should not miss, above all, the montadito of tuna in butter”, highlights the journalist.
Present or Abelardo Tavern: Avda. Cabo Diego Pérez Rodríguez, 67. Barbate. Tel. 956 544 711. Map. Average price per person: 15 euros.
With this name and being in Barbate, the capital of tuna, it is almost a duty that this restaurant is one of our essentials in the province of Cádiz. Here you can have tuna in all kinds of preparations -salted, canned, stewed, raw- a la carte or with a set menu (advance notice). My recommendation -and that of Narci Corrales, the manager- is that you don’t miss the barbateño taco: “It’s lightly grilled tuna with pickled onion, jalapeño, guacamole and tomato on a corn tortilla. Whoever tries it, repeats”, says the owner. If you like offal, I recommend the tuna heart, although the room staff always warns that it is not for all palates.
In 1988 Manuel Corrales and Dolores Pacheco took over ‘La Peña’, an establishment that had been running for years. Here they served simple food only for members. In 2013 the three children of Manuel and Dolores took over and currently it is one of them, Narci, who directs it and his sister María who works in the dining room. La Peña’s cuisine has changed since its foundation. Now there is more variety, with proposals that look at other kitchens. However, the tuna is still top quality and for all budgets.
The Tuna Rock: c/ Ancha, 39. Barbate. Tel. 956 432 319. Map. Average price per person: A la carte: 35-40 euros. Tasting menu: 45 euros (drinks not included).
CONIL OF THE BORDER
Who was going to tell Fernanda and Pedro that that hut they built by the sea in Conil to feed sailors and humble people would end up being one of those that cannot be left off the list to eat good tuna -and stews and other things – in Cadiz.
Today it is Antonio and Pedro Pérez, sons of the founders, who run La Fontanilla with more up-to-date proposals, but keeping their own traditional stews on the menu.
We would highlight the tartare, which here only has tuna and in abundant quantities, and another dish that the public acclaims so much that in addition to giving the restaurant its identity, it has remained on the menu forever: the tuna taco. “It is a thick piece of tuna belly baked and served with vegetables,” says Pedro Pérez. This dish was created a bit by accident: Paco Pérez, cousin of the owners and worker at La Fontanilla, cut the piece too thick. To keep it from drying out too much, he put it in the oven. “He liked it and it stayed on the menu,” says the owner.
the fontanilla: Avda. de la Playa, s/n. Border Conil. Tel. 956 441 130. Map. Average price per person: 40 euros.
SANLUCAR DE BARRAMEDA
Dona Calma and The summer of Santa Ana
Cristina Cruz, journalist, director of Sanlucar Information and creator of GastroSanlucar brings us a double recommendation: Doña Calma and El Veranillo de Santa Ana. Two different restaurants that belong to the same family of restaurateurs, that of the brothers Miguel, José and Gildo Hidalgo Prat. Both in Doña Calma and in El Veranillo “they work with tuna from Small Hip Flask”, says Christina. “They have tuna ham, which is prepared in both places, and it’s wonderful,” the journalist recommends.
In Doña Calma they offer more innovative proposals where raw tuna abounds. Spicy touches, such as diced spicy tuna, another dish that Cristina recommends, some dishes with soy mayonnaise or products from Cádiz, such as red tuna tarantelo with payoyo cheese cream. In El veranillo de Santa Ana the cuisine is somewhat more conservative and the specialty, in addition to tuna, is rice.
Dona Calma: c/ Director Julián Cerdán, 8. Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Tel. 635 258 217. Map. Average price per person: 25-30 euros.
The Summer of Santa Ana: c/ Manuel Hermosilla, 2. Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Tel. 672 022 580. Map. Average price per person: 35-40 euros.
SHERRY OF THE FRONTIER
“The tuna route is not only focused on the coast, but also inland”, defends Eugene Camachofood journalist and director of Today for Today Jerezbefore recommending us some of his places in Jerez de la Frontera.
This industrial-style restaurant with an informal atmosphere leaves no room for doubt: “We are tuna lovers and we are specialized in Almadraba tuna from Petaca Chico”, they clarify from Miguel Ángel Carrasco’s restaurant, its manager. Although we bring you here following the trail of the tuna they offer, you can also give the meat a good account. And if you are undecided, the tuna cutlet with tempura juice and red berries gives you the best of both worlds.
Raw and cooked, the Secuencia 9 tuna cuts have a modern preparation, although there is no lack of updated references to traditional Cadiz cuisine, such as the tuna with onions that they prepare on toast.
Sequence 9: Avda. La Granja, 13. Jerez de la Frontera. Tel. 856 048 695. Map. Average price per person: 25 euros.
Despite the fact that UltimAtun is not a central restaurant in Jerez, nor is it one of these traditional establishments – it has been open since 2019 – it is usually crowded and whoever tries it comes back. There, Rubén Dorantes and Mario Moreno base themselves on traditional cuisine to modify it to their taste and that of palates that want to go out a little bit of the usual.
Their specialty, as can already be inferred from the play on words of the name, is tuna, red and almadraba tuna, which they also buy from Petaca Chico. They do it in different preparations and, although their menu is not extensive, what usually comes out the most are the chichatún, tuna cracklings with their spices and cuts that are reminiscent of pork cracklings. Another favorite is the Moorish tuna skewers; some skewers that accompany with sauce and seaweed as a garnish.
LastTuna: Seneca, 4. Pozoalbero, Jerez de la Frontera. Tel. 674 342 491. Map. Average price per person: 20 euros.
fan (Jerez de la Frontera and El Puerto de Santa María)
Another place that Eugenio Camacho recommends is Avanico. This restaurant opened in Jerez at the end of 2020 and in March of this year another one was opened in El Puerto de Santa María, the city of Fran Oliva, the chef responsible for this project together with Jessica Hevilla.
Oliva has been in the kitchens of the area for decades. It began in El Buzo and has passed through the Hotel Monasterio; in Jerez he was at Cruz Blanca, Hotel Los Jándalos and Albores, with Julián Olivares. Although he relies on the traditional cuisine of this area of Cádiz, he offers flavors and preparations from other cuisines at more than reasonable prices, a value for money that has earned the Jerez local the Bib Gourmand distinction.
Avanico’s offer is varied. Their menu is long and based on seasonal products, although they are more concise when it comes to tuna. The red tuna tartare or tataki on hummus with miso and tuna roe are among the most requested. They also add different dishes and cuts according to the week. They are dishes designed to share in any of the restaurant spaces: high tables, dining room and terrace.
Avanico Sherry: Paseo de la Rosaleda, 4. Jerez de la Frontera. Tel. 856 060 519. Map. Average price per person: 40 euros.
Avanico El Puerto: Riverbank, 9. El Puerto de Santa María. Tel. 956 100 226. Map. Average price per person: 40 euros.
VEJER OF THE BORDER
Nobody better than Salva Moreno, journalist in Gourmet Cadiz, to speak to us of the excellences of his people; because you don’t only have to go to Vejer in summer to visit its beautiful streets of whitewashed houses (which you do too). “Vejer is a beautiful town, with a lot to see and a very wide and varied gastronomic offer throughout the year, since many restaurants remain open in winter,” says Moreno.
Among all the gastronomic offer that it offers, Salva stays with 4 Estaciones for several reasons. The space and the service are the first: “I find the restaurant very welcoming, it has two interior rooms and two terrace areas. Alberto Reyes, the owner and who is in charge of the room, knows how to create that special atmosphere that the restaurant has”, says the journalist.
The third reason is the kitchen of Emilio Fernández “a young chef who will surely give a lot to talk about in the future. Although the style of 4 Seasons was already marked before he arrived, he has been able to adapt and give the details of it to slightly change some dishes”. And the one that most interests us today, his tuna. “At 4 Estaciones they give an oriental touch to many of their dishes, such as tuna marked as tataki with pad thai in tatay sauce, probably the one I like the most. He also gives his personal touch to the tartar, with roasted cherry tomatoes, herb emulsion and corn nachos. He also has it in meatballs with onion sauce and Oloroso, and now in summer, with confit diced potatoes. The price is also very affordable”, says Salva, who gives us a recommendation other than tuna. “Yes or yes, you have to try the saam of prawns”.
4 seasons: c/ Juan Relinque, 3. Vejer de la Frontera. Tel. 640 626 908. Map. Average price per person: 25-30 euros.
ZAHARA OF THE TUNAS
More than two decades of work and product guarantee the quality of La Sal, another of Eugenio Camacho’s favourites, who recommends us to stop at this restaurant and try some of their tuna preparations at one of its tables. Near the Cabo de la Plata trap, in La Sal they have been winners of several editions of the Tuna Route and also of the retinto. Its traditional cuisine “looking at other gastronomies” is based on the product of the area, not only in tuna and other fish, but also in beef and vegetables from Conil. Here tuna is a product that you can try both raw, for example in its tataki, or cooked, such as grilled tuna chops with oyster sauce.
The salt: Atlanterra playa urbanization, 73. Zahara de los atunes. Tel. 956 439 604. Map. Average price per person: 45 euros.
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