New sap for the ‘enfant terrible’ of fashion. But not just anyone. Jean Paul Gaultier recovers his ready-to-wear line with the help of young designers with two points in common, talent and transgressive vision, to revisit the icons of the house. Those chosen by the master are Marvin M’Toumo, Nicola Lecourt Mansion, the Brazilian jeweler Alan Crocetti, Ottolinger and the Cordovan Alejandro Gómez Palomo (Posadas, Córdoba, 1992), better known as Palomo Spain.
The five of them pour their own creative universe into the limited unisex collection ‘Les Marins’, in which the myth of Gaultier’s sailor has a clear inclusive and collaborative mission, since each season young firms will rotate through the workshops of the French house to cover its most recognizable pieces. Palomo took a version of the sailor shirt, corset and jeans, one of the riskiest garments of the entire proposal. Made of organic cotton, with the ‘Palomo loves Gaultier’ logo embroidered in rhinestones on the hem, the back being detachable buttoned, allowing the underwear -or the skin- to be exposed. The 750 euros that each pair costs have not been an impediment for them to be exhausted shortly after going on sale.
A collaboration that makes 2021 even more special, the year in which Palomo Spain celebrates five years as a firm, in which it has already reached a balance in the universal brand – it sells more abroad than within Spain -, in part due to the pandemic . “Our work perspective has changed, we know the business better by getting out of the hectic pace we had before, when we lived for enjoyment, for the event,” says Palomo, who no longer wants to impress anyone. What does not mean that he wants to continue expressing himself every time he goes out on the street, “but in another way”, he assures in an interview with this newspaper. «We are not growing as just another brand. The firm transcends what is simply fashion, it is a universe that speaks of freedom and acceptance in an organic way ».
Five years in which he has given “a chance to people who had nowhere to dress” and has managed to unblock some mind, “which has been the most beautiful of these years”, in which he can boast of having successfully paraded in Paris and New York when I was a newcomer to the industry. A marvel trained at the prestigious Central Saint Martins school that has become known to the general public after becoming a member of the jury of the ‘Masters of Sewing’ contest, where you can enjoy a “boy without too much artifice, original, close and Tender”. This is how the young dressmaker timidly defines himself, who is grateful that the television program has taken him three months from the town where he maintains his workshop.
«I have a simple and normal life and that distracts me a bit from day to day. You feel like a celebrity for a moment, I don’t consider myself at all, “he adds quickly. His role is kinder than that of his fellow members of the jury (Lorenzo Caprile and María Escoté), but it is not studied at all: «I have never given my team a scolding in my life. I’m not doing it there. I’d rather be the good guy than the bad guy.