During the past year, Michael Kors did 30 shows for Zoom. And in all of them, the message from her clients was unanimous: “We want to get ready again, to dress, to feel great.” Thus, to celebrate 40 years of his brand, the American designer did not have to think too much: his collection would be a party. And that juxtaposition between “glamor and simplicity” that has defined his firm would serve a single objective: “make people have fun, lift their spirits.” It is not a modest purpose in these times. But his status as a Studio 54 puppy and four decades wearing the soires New York’s most sophisticated – in addition to the Speaker of the US House of Representatives Nancy Pelosi – legitimize him for it.
On Monday, Kors explained these and other details in a virtual press conference, but he reserved the blows of effect for the presentation the next day. Namely: soundtrack by Rufus Wainwright —performing City Lights, New York State of Mind Y There’s No Business like Show Business-, and walking through the deserted streets of Broadway a selection of models through which the history of contemporary fashion is narrated: Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen, Carolyn Murphy, Ashley Graham, Shalom Harlow, Bella Hadid, Alek Wek and Irina Shayk, among others. All answered the call of the man who brought the relaxation and casual style of the American country world to the urban wardrobe; and that he built a company on it, Capri Holdings, which today owns, in addition to his firm, Versace and Jimmy Choo. All after bankruptcy in 1993: a true American story of self-improvement.
Before the Show, several actors such as Billy Porter, Bette Midler, Rosario Dawson or Debra Messing participated in a video to promote and announce the parade. The reason: the collection was inspired by Broadway and, in addition, Kors and his company had made a donation to The Actors Fund organization “to support the theater industry.” Through the computer screen, the designer assured that he was eager to return to live: concerts, plays and, of course, parades. “Old-fashioned, even if it’s only for 10 people,” he explained.
However, digital and pandemic life has brought one of the most unique ideas in this collection to the table. “Going to restaurants, where there are no more letters but QR codes, it occurred to me that we could use them on some of our dresses.” Said and done: 16 of her garments for the coming autumn-winter 2021 season include them and, through them, information on the composition and history of design, especially interesting in models such as the red patent leather coat that Cindy Crawford wore for the first time. time in 1991 and which Kors recovers for this self-tribute collection.
“This year, we have understood the importance of the coat and how, if it is chosen well, it can totally change our appearance and even our mood”, explains Kors who declines the garment from its most sartorial interpretation to the down jacket, printed in squares or with openings under the sleeves that allow it to be worn as a cape. “They’re the boring black anti-plume, make no mistake. They are an urban, glamorous and clean version ”. In any format, the designer combines them with miniskirts reminiscent of the 90s. “I was the first to take a model on the runway with such a short skirt and no stockings. Cathy [Horyn, crítica de moda de The Cut] said he was crazy. Everyone thought he was crazy, but we are looking forward to going out on the street, and when we do, we will want to show skin, “he says.
As the vaccination runs its course and the confinements, too, Kors does not forget that we interact through video calls. “This is a perfect Zoom dress,” says a sequined piece with a bombastic feather collar. The creator is convinced that excess will come after the covid, but he assures that if he has learned something in his 40-year career, it is that the key to survival is to stay true to oneself, which in his case means to continue betting on those pieces timeless and urban, but powerful; garments that allow you to conquer the parquet of the Bag and the dance floor. Not surprisingly, the creator grew up on the breasts of Studio 54. Because as Kors defends, there are things that only leave their mark live.
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