Paris.- Men’s fashion showed muscle this week in Paris, during a Fashion Week with spectacular catwalks, such as Rick Owens, Miyiake or Marine Serre, who invited a thousand fans to a parade on an athletics track on Saturday night .
Givench showed her first exclusively men’s collection, as did Serre, who proposed a mixed show, but with her first men’s creations since the young designer started in fashion.
“We have opened the doors to more than 1,000 people who are not fashion professionals, and you see, everyone was here,” declared a happy Marie Serre to the press at the end of her show.
A handicapped athlete, people of all ages, even children from his own family paraded Serre, in a celebration of life, color and sport.
Serre plays with materials a priori unrelated to high-flying fashion, such as cloth, to stamp it and propose clothes with a thick appearance, fitted to the body or not.
Or she sews scarves to create flowing, unisex dresses, in the same way that swimwear can be turned into a garment.
Printed lycra can perfectly cover shoes and reach to his or her waist.
“We have increased our sales for men by 30% in the last two collections, and although we are not yet at parity [con las ventas femeninas]I’m not going to do less,” he added.
“I realized that many men wear women’s clothing with a lot of style,” he said.
The nonchalance of Hermès
Last Thursday it was the turn of the Japanese firm Issey Miseki to propose a parade with acrobats, with clothes of infinite sheets, acidulous tones.
On Saturday, Hermès also showed a casual line, for a man who, according to designer Véronique Nichanian, has also been forced by covid to rethink things.
“Thank God, men assume their personality, they are liberated, they have understood that you can be both seductive and serious when you dress in a more relaxed way than before,” he added.
“I have a tender look towards men, without judgments, without ghosts like some male creators can have about the feminine,” he added.
In the spring/summer 2023 collection, Hermès will propose prints with seahorses, lobsters, shorts combined with light long-sleeved blouses. The shapes are softened, as well as the colors.
Céline’s return
Celine closes the week after a two-year absence on Sunday, with the return to the catwalks of Hedi Slimane, one of the most influential creators of the moment, after passing through Dior and Saint Laurent.
Slimane had abandoned the official calendar of the French Federation in February 2020, considering that those fixed dates were obsolete.
Many brands now choose to organize parades several times a year, in different places (Dior in Seville a few days ago), in reduced formats, to release the artistic production of their workshops.
Slimane chose to present his collections during the covid lockdown in dream locations, such as the Châteaux de Vaux-le-Vicomte and Chambord, through short films.
Now it’s about closing the week in style.
In an unusual interview with the newspaper Le Monde, Slimane acknowledged that he “without hesitation” prefers to draw masculine forms since 20 years ago, when he started, “everything had to be done.”
“It is reasonable to give space to both men and women to tell a story. That way there is more space for more looks,” said the American Matthew Williams, artistic director of Givenchy.
According to the general director of the brand, the demand for men’s fashion “has not stopped increasing” in the last two decades.
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