How has Prague changed since Kafka’s time?” – “Do you mean during the day or at night?” – “I mean in general.” – “That’s actually a big difference.”
We are sitting high above Prague. On the Letná Hill. On the Sommerberg or Belvedere, as they used to say in German. We are sitting in perhaps the most beautiful beer garden in the city and drinking beer. An old friend of mine and I. It’s already late in the afternoon. “Prague is a completely different city at night than it is during the day. Just the soft light of the street lamps. The shadows. The noises. At night you can hear what the city is really like. The Vltava is also a different river at night. It’s always been like that here. And our doctor knew that exactly. Kafka was a night owl.”
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