LONDON. London Fashion Week looks to elegance, fun and the evening dress, the one to wear to go out to celebrate the end of restrictions. It’s all very glamorous, in the name of freedom. And it is young brands in particular who define the aesthetics of the autumn-winter 22 season, no longer overshadowed by the big names like Burberry, Victoria Beckham and JW Anderson, who were absent from the event. There are also few VIPs. In the front row many celebrities made in London such as FKA Twigs, with the exception of Anna Wintour spotted in the front row of Richard Quinn, flanked by the ever present Edward Enninful, at the head of British Vogue. Party dresses but darker weather, under the wind of hurricanes Eunice and Franklin, which upset the fold of guests queuing for shows in different corners of the city.
Glam ’70
Soft lighting and apple green carpet surrounded by concrete columns envelop Halpern’s demi-couture dresses. The Brixton Recreational Center, south of the metropolis, takes a step back in time. What if it was all a dream? The English designer Michael Halpern starts from this question, imagining a young Angelica Huston who, after two years of pandemic, returns to the dance floor. The 70s are felt with colored fringes, animalier motifs, chiffon, satin and bright colors from pink flamingo to lime. Diamond collars and chunky accessories break the dream and bring us back to today. Among the brilliants and moods of Studio 54 appear some looks that hint at the white and almost classic bridal.
Sports Party
On the other side of the Thames, with an incredible view of the Canary Wharf business district, David Koma proposes an ultra-sporty version for autumn winter. Georgian by birth and English from this year, Koma is inspired by women’s football made in the UK. From game to club, the outfit is always the same, just add shimmering palettes to the kit stripes and diamonds to the braided tank tops, with the addition of shiny shin guards. 35 looks parade around circles of green lawn that decorate the dark room, only illuminated by some spotlight that wants to emulate a night football match. To close is the British supermodel Jourdan Dunn: he wears a voluminous maxi suit in black leather that is almost lost in the darkness of the room.
Fetish Chic
Powder pink floor and walls and a giant shimmering candelabra characterize the London Chamber Orchestra as they play Samuel Barber’s “L’Adagio for Strings”, surrounded by a maxi corolla of intertwined pink flowers. We are waiting for the first look of Richard Quinn, 32 years old and already awarded for its originality by the queen herself in 2018. In the front row you can see the dark glasses of Wintour, who has always been a great admirer of Quinn. The focus is almost on couture, in a passionate roundup of incredible silhouettes: the brand’s classic dresses with super voluminous floral prints, always paired with tight-fitting latex jumpsuits are mixed with novelties that wink at the 60s. Mega hats that fall over the eyes but with holes to look beyond, trench coats that continue to wrap the head and a beautiful fuchsia silk tunic that wraps the supermodel Irina Shayk. Between the sacred and the profane appear the American drag queen Violet Chachki dressed as a dominatrix in latex jumpsuit who accompanies the dog man on a leash, while Kate Moss’s daughter, Lila, closes the show in a mini dress with white feathers holding a bouquet.
Winter Rave
The 3D pointed knit is now the trademark of Chet Lo, a very young ex-Saint Martins who already counts Kylie Jenner and Dua Lipa among his celebrity fans and parades under Fashion East. The autumn-winter 22 of the Asian-American designer is defined by bright pastel colors, mini skirts and layered volumes, with maxi boots in colored faux fur to cover from the cold of the Tundra, from the name of the collection. The Chet Lo woman is sexy, icy and ready for a rave in the snow, covered in a warm, finely woven knit. In the front row, at E1 club in East London, the crowd cheers ready for the after party. An announced and deserved success.
Sartorial sustainability
Central to the Vivienne Westwood brand is the commitment to sustainability, which is also felt in this autumn / winter 22/23 collection, presented digitally to minimize the environmental impact. The materials are refined: organic cotton, recycled polyester and nylon and strictly cruelty free wool. Wild Beauty is the name of the collection and features elegant classic tailored suits alternating with animal prints and super sexy mini corset dresses with hand-painted eye prints by the London fashion queen herself. Westwood looks at art and the past but in a modern way: Bruegel’s painting “Lotta between Carnival and Lent” from 1559 appears printed on a warm quilted jacket, perfect for wrapping long brindle dresses in sustainable viscose when returning from a night party .
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