Garnet, burgundy, cherry, scarlet… This range of dark reds with a hint of violet is as much a part of autumn as the fall of the leaves or the return to the gym. In terms of fashion, they always arrive punctually in the coldest collections of the year, but this autumn-winter the explosion burgundy has gone further, with countless designers supporting its wine-like aftertaste in a multitude of garments and accessories.
This 2024, the maroon color marks its own microtrends on and off the catwalk. It is the favourite pantone for a monochrome look, whether in the form of trench coats that act as sixties dresses alongside very high loafers and a chest bag – as advocated by Sabato De Sarno for Gucci –; in the most sought-after tailoring of the season according to Roksanda and Ferragamo; or in sporty hybrids, such as the one proposed by Lacoste with its monolegging and the XXL silhouette of a sack coat.
Its wine hue seems to spill over the Greek wrinkles that draw this autumn’s evening garment. In the hands of Thierry Mugler or Ermanno Scervino, the micro leather dress The jacket sharpens the waist to the maximum, always combined with accessories in the same tone such as ankle boots or handbags. Lorenzo Serafini, on the other hand, visualizes a second, duller maroon skin to shape his entire autumn collection at Philosophy, whether on the torso with double-bow tops, pleated trousers, micro belts or a pouch under the arm.
In contrast to the ubiquity of monochrome, there are several colour schemes that are gaining ground this FW 24. On the one hand, the suggestive contrast established by makeup and earth tones against the depth of crimson (Philosophy, Ermanno Scervino). On the other hand, the risky proposal to extend the dark line with midnight blue (Khaite, Victoria Beckham) or even not to go beyond it the same reddish range with fuchsias and magentas (Pierre Cardin) in a single look. The secret to mastering it? Not including more than two colours in the formula and avoiding prints at all costs.
The fervor for leather The trend that the catwalk dictates in all its possible forms is also the key to understanding the maroon trend. Its cold and malleable texture travels back a few decades to design the garment outdoor with more style from autumn, whether in the form of 80s windbreakers and coats with prominent shoulder pads (Zimmermann, Thierry Mugler) or the slippery-shouldered trench coat that Ann Demeulemeester borrows from the film Matrix (1999).
But fine leather is not the only material that is dyed in maroon. Its most sensual side is placed on bedroom garments that flirt with tulle and lace and prolong the exaltation of transparency Another season when night falls. The Florentine house Ermanno Scervino, known throughout the world for its ethereal vision of women, masterfully anchors the wine colour throughout its collection, between intimate pieces such as the corset and culottes, in front of endless wool scarves.
In terms of accessories, the proposals are skyrocketing. From the reptile skin handbags that Bottega and Veneta will turn into it bag This season, yes or yes, to a multitude of handbags and shopping bags extremes. The musketeer boots win the game, followed by riding boots ground level, Mary Janes, platform loafers and pumps open-toed shoes that are not afraid of the cold. Always in maroon tones.
Below is a selection of clothes and accessories to support the trend this autumn-winter 2024.
1. Massimo Dutti
2. Bimba and Lola
3. Sfera
4. Sandro
5. Claudie Pierlot
6. Victoria Beckham
7. Guess
8. Max & Co
9. Hugo Boss
10. Women’Secret
11. Pull&Bear
12. Sézane
13. Etro
14. Bottega and Veneta
15. Jimenas
16. Thomas Sabo
17. Mango
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