It took twelve days of work to make the invisible stitching on the pleats, which gives the dresses “an incredible lightness”
After having presented his designs inspired by the origins of the tarot virtually by the pandemic,
Dior He stimulated the senses of those attending his show in a pavilion embroidered by Indian artisans, on the first day of Haute Couture Week in Paris. Actresses Monica Bellucci and Jessica Chastain; and the British model Cara Delevingne traveled to the Rodin museum in the French capital to see the wonderful show.
Dior is committed to face-to-face events, which “allow us to understand the collection in a more complete way, compared to a video,” explained the creative director of the women’s collections, the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri, who made use of her compatriot Matteo Garrone, director of ‘Dogman’ and ‘Gomorra’, to digitally show their two previous proposals.
On this occasion, Chiuri made a
collection rich in tweed ‘total looks’ -from boots to hat- and in flowing evening dresses, in which braids and fabric chains hold the pleats almost invisibly. It took
twelve working days for the invisible stitching on the pleats, which give “an incredible lightness” to the dresses, said Maria Grazia Chiuri.
The show took place inside a room whose walls were completely embroidered following the sketch of the French artist Eva Jospin. A nod to the Indian embroidery room of the Colonna palace in Rome. The
embroidery, with an area of 350 m2, were made by the Chanakya workshops in Bombay, with which the Dior stylist has created a school to train women in this artisan specialty, which in India is a men’s trade. “In a face-to-face show, there is a very tactile, very physical relationship with the work,” Jospin stressed.
More than 400 colors, 150 types of dots, brightness … “When we see the madness of detail, we realize that there are works that cannot be virtual, they must live,” added the artist.
A convinced feminist, Maria Grazia Chiuri has developed this theme with subtlety. No slogans or vagina-shaped installations like the one designed by American artist Judy Chicago in January 2020 for a Dior collection in front of the Rodin museum. “The end of feminism will never come”, smiled Maria Grazia Chiuri, who believes that
“Claiming the artistic value of embroidery, which is considered a domestic task, is a feminist message”.
The collection’s palette dialogues with embroidery, in refined shades of blue, pink, green and beige. “Colors are natural and timeless”, which reflects the designer’s idea that haute couture pieces can be passed down from mother to daughter. In addition, it plays with the proportions to achieve a silhouette “more contemporary and timeless”. And more comfortable, because the delicacy of
the waist is achieved visually with volume games and not with a tight cut.
The tweed hat, which matches the suit, is inspired by the “very masculine” hat from the 1960s, in contrast to the large floral hats with which the Dior house has hitherto crowned its clients.