Although Argentina is filled in almost equal parts with descendants of Italians and ‘Galicians’, the truth is that the weight of the country of the boot in its most popular gastronomy is evident. This ‘preponderant gene’ can be verified in Danttethe new bistro that the chef has opened in Madrid Dante Liporacefamous on the other side of the Atlantic for having been responsible for the kitchen of the Casa Rosada – the headquarters of the national government, in Buenos Aires – during the government of former president Mauricio Macri.
The cook also has a resume here, well was in elBulli of Ferrán Adriá for two years. Upon his return to his native country, he opened several restaurants and bars until, after his time in the Plaza de Mayo palace between 2015 and 2019, he opened the one he currently has and best represents his gastronomic vision, named Liniers Market. Located in the fashionable area of the Argentine capital, the Palermo neighborhood, Liporace makes haute cuisine with Argentine seal and products, with dishes that pay tribute to the countryside, traditions and the old cattle market of the name.
This is the Dantte of Madrid
With an irreverent and approachable style, the Argentine chef now arrives in Madrid with Dantte, located on Santa Engracia Street in the Chamberí neighborhood, where he combines a cuisine of flavors and enjoyment with a great atmosphere.
The new restaurant occupies a corner location with an old glass and stone façade that has been preserved and even enhanced in a renovation that, in the interior, is reminiscent of the style of the 1920s New York’s Little Italya city in which Liporace loves to get lost, although with a scoundrel point in some details as its motto ‘siamo bastardi’ (‘we are bastards’) suggests.
The menu is also about fusions, as it reflects his history, and that of so many of his compatriots, born from the union of the Italian dishes and memory of his ancestors with his River Plate reality and character. Thus, it includes emblematic proposals from the chef and his time at the Argentine Casa Rosada, such as his black risotto with chinchulines –veal small intestine–, a piece of offal typical of the Argentine grill (23 euros), and also a beef milanesa with provolone foam, olives and tomatoes (29), perfect for sharing.
Liporace also serves its famous pizza in a glassa liquid deconstruction that the New York Times once praised (9); the ricotta tortellini in honor of his grandmother Mafalda (22) and her interpretation of the rigatoni amatriciana with fried egg (19), among other recipes such as endives, monkfish, beef eye and the classic dulce de leche flan dessert (6).
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Where:
C/Santa Engracia, 32, Madrid. -
When:
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 12 noon. -
Average ticket:
50 euros.
The tables of this new restaurant are located in a bare and warm room, where only the food reigns and which is accessed after passing through a exquisite design bar where there is a bar and high stools to have a drink. The liquid offering includes cocktails, beers and a selection of European and Argentine wines.
On the ground floor, there is also a clandestine of exposed bricks and original vaulted ceilings, where the most fun celebrations and gatherings in the area are already organized.
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