“You can make any good plan, and then you have to adjust it all the time. ”
I saw a mountaineer Lotta Hintsa stated to schedule inquiries before flying to Pakistan and heading to the Karakorum Mountains in the north of the country.
Based on past experience, the assessment proved to be quite correct when Hintsa and his climbing partner Don Bowie had been for more than a week the 12th highest mountain in the world on Broad Peak.
After Hintsa had tackled the stomach ailment that had struck the base camp, the duo got to climb to the number one camp and take supplies there. About one mile above the base camp at 6,000 feet, Camp No. 1 eventually went for two nights.
Hintsa and Bowie left one tent in the camp, among other things, so that the place to stay will be waiting from now on.
Admittedly, the space for movement is not very princely, as the tent is on a really small platform that can accommodate up to four small tents.
“Big stuff was stuffed in there and old ropes were cut out of the ice,” Hintsa says.
After carrying the goods and getting used to the thinner air, it was time to return to the base camp.
“Now we have taken a shower, that is, poured hot water over a bucket from a bucket and ate my stomach full.”
On the mountain is thus quite human temperatures during the summer. At night, the heat drops slightly below ten degrees Celsius, but Hintsa says he focuses well during the day on the floor, especially in the sunshine.
“You have to wear quilted clothes at night, and when the sun goes to the cloud, the temperature quickly drops to frost.”
Adapting to temperature fluctuations does not produce problems, but snow does. Hintsan and Bowie were scheduled to leave early in the week at the second camp, but heavy snowfall changed plans.
By Friday, the snow had come for six days almost non-stop, estimated at about 60 centimeters.
“The idea was to go with big loads on the back to camp number one. Then, in the afternoon, a route is prepared for the second camp, where we would go for a couple of nights. ”
Climb however, changed to waiting. The means to kill time are a bit more limited than on a home couch, but a mountaineer knows how to prepare for this aspect of the sport as well.
“Last night it was thought to have tried up, but the storm hit.”
Hintsa’s days were largely spent including, solving sudoku puzzles and taking walks. However, he does not admit to being a five-star sudoku master.
“Maybe two stars, but there’s a trip left here, so there’s time for five,” Hintsa says.
“Books are everything Paulo Coelho murder mysteries and non-fiction. ”
In addition to the entertainment, Hintsa and Bowie have used a camera helicopter to study the effect of snow on the climbing route.
“Dronella sees surprisingly well. Especially the steep slopes at the beginning that collect snow are important to see. There have been a lot of avalanches. ”
Usean however, after a snowy day, there are hopes of – perhaps a little surprisingly – more avalanches.
“Last night it was thought to have tried up, but the storm hit. The whole mountainside where the route goes is now ‘loaded’, that is, full of snow, ”Hintsa says.
The weather report doesn’t bode well for the next few days, but a single flash of light could change the situation.
“If the moment came that the sun would shine and cement or clear the route with avalanches, we could climb up for several days and at least work the route to second camp.”
Salmiak situation instead, it is good so far. Hintsa estimates that he brought about four pounds of salmiak to the base camp. The problem with sufficiency is that Hintsa is not the only eater.
“Unfortunately, Don also likes salmiakia and probably eats it more than I do.”