Hintsa considers the trip a success, even though the peak of Broad Peak was not reached.
Mountaineers Lotta Hintsa and Don Bowie do not continue climbing the 12th highest mountain in the world on Broad Peak.
The duo’s last attempt to climb to the top of the 8,051-meter-high mountain ended in difficult camp at 7,000-feet on Tuesday due to difficult conditions.
Hintsa and Bowie landed in base camp, and on Wednesday it was time to pack for a trip home.
“My visa expires on August 5, and the restlinks of the rest of the world start to weigh on,” Hintsa commented.
The last attempt to the top was to be carried out in a 24-hour burst, and until the third camp, everything went well. Admittedly, Bowie, who forgot his sunglasses, climbed between the first and second camp with a shirt blindfolded to avoid snow blindness.
In the third camp, Hintsa and Bowie slept for a moment, and when he woke up, Hintsa saw other climbers striving for the top coming down. The snow conditions were really unstable and the risk of avalanche was high.
“It would have been suicide to go up,” Hintsa says.
“It was a bit of a feeling like‘ oh shit, ’but whatever you do. It’s part of climbing, and this has been just as palpable throughout the trip. It has also made this interesting, and one can be proud of how much has been done with the dune and the right solutions. ”
Hintsa reached a height of 7,960 meters at its best, but the peak attempt the next day passed after he left to help a mountain carrier suffering from mountain sickness.
However, the failure to conquer the first “kasiton” does not dig.
“I would have almost 100% certainly reached the top, but I don’t regret for a moment that I made the choice to go to the rescue and not to the top.”
“There were no physical problems, the powers were good, I cleared the route and fixed the ropes.”
Hintsan and Bowie was to climb Broad 13 as well as the World’s 13th highest mountain, the Gasherbrum II route called the French Route.
However, the four Frenchmen had time to climb the route while Hintsa and Bowie got used to the high ground at Broad Peak. Thus, the actual purpose of the trip lost its significance.
“The G2 is no longer attractive. The risk in relation to the prize is not worth the climb. ”
“The French Route is annoying, but a new plan has already been made for the G2.”
When a trip of almost two months is complete without a trip home, it is time for the final summary.
Hintsa says the time at Broad Peak has further clarified and reinforced ideas about its own direction. In addition, the rescue side of mountaineering is of increasing interest.
“Normal routes don’t interest a single piece, it’s starting to be like that circus. You can divide the base camp, but then on your own routes. ”
“Another thing is that I want to take more rescue courses and learn the right techniques, for example in helicopter rescue.”
Hintsa finds it unfortunate that there are so many climbers in the mountains who depend on sherpas as guides and carriers.
“This trip has seen very strongly that one of the most dangerous things on the mountain is other people. If you don’t have the ability to save yourself from a rail, for example, you start a butterfly effect that affects everyone else. ”
In addition to lacking skills, other people can also be at risk in a slightly more special way. Hintsa says equipment theft has been very common this year.
“We had a‘ warehouse ’in the third camp, where the stuff that was needed from there was stuck. We had one ice felling and two poles. Such stuff can be a matter of life and death on a mountain. ”
Hintsa also gives a rather illuminating example of the circus on the mountain he mentioned.
“Here was a 12-year-old Pakistani-Canadian girl with her father. Dad got sick, left the girl alone in base camp and said ‘uphill carriers will pull you to the top’. Dad wanted the girl to set some world record. ”
“The girl said she doesn’t dare or know how to climb herself, so the plaintiffs pull her up.”
“A call was made to the consulate and it was said that the father is playing Russian roulette in the spirit of his daughter.”
The girl was picked up from the mountain, and Hintsa and Bowie try to influence that no similar situations be seen in the future.
There is an age limit for mountaineering in Nepal and China, but not in Pakistan. Hintsa says they plan to contact local authorities and ask for a change in the situation.
Change he would also like a mindset where getting to the top is the only relevant thing.
It is no longer on your own target list to climb every 14 mountains on Earth more than 8,000 meters.
“There’s no interest in getting on the ranking list that almost everyone on today climbs with the help of advanced infrastructure.”
“Reaching the summit doesn’t make anyone a climber, but what happens between the base camp and the summit.”