Sport|Conquest of the mountains
Hintsa and Bowie experienced the most dangerous moments of their joint climbing history in a snowstorm. The duo is climbing the world’s 12th highest mountain.
Mountaineer Lotta Hintsan and his climbing partner Don Bowien the journey towards the top of Broad Peak, the 12th highest mountain in the world, progresses. Although not at the desired pace, but the direction is right – upwards.
Hintsa and Bowie experienced the most dangerous moments in their joint climbing history when they decided to take supplies from base camp a thousand feet higher to Camp No. 6,000 meters.
After ten days of snowfall, the weather was predicted to improve, so the duo headed to the heights with tens of pounds in range.
“We had a total of 570 meters of rope, ice screws and other supplies for a total of more than 50 kilos,” Hintsa says.
The ascent lasted seven hours, the last time the trip folded in four hours.
“It can be compared to doing squats on the back of 45 percent of your own weight on the face with three crown masks. I was just over. ”
The duo purpose had to stay in camp number one for a few days to get used to the thinner air and prepare a route to camp number two weather permitting.
However, the weather forecast changed and the snowstorm started again.
“We lay in a tent listening to avalanches. A knife hung from the ceiling in case the avalanche hit and buried the tent. ”
Hintsa and Bowie had to decide which risk was worth taking: to go down in dangerous conditions or to wait for the snowstorm to end and risk running out of food and gas.
They chose to return the very next morning. The wind was blowing at about 60 kilometers per hour, and during the night 20 centimeters of snow had come.
Down the duo left Hintsa above tied to the same rope, depending on the circumstances, either close together or a little further away.
Midway through the mountain slope was wiped by three avalanches. Bowie above noticed the avalanche in time and had time to warn Hintsa.
“I shouted at Lota,‘ left ’. After a while, the avalanche only passed meters after him, which is exactly where Lotta had been, ”Bowie says.
“I was lucky along the way that the avalanches didn’t grow so big that they would have taken us with them,” Hintsa adds.
The total landing took less than an hour, and eventually the duo got to base camp with intact skins. According to weather forecasts, the next attempt at the upper could take place on Wednesday or Thursday.
“This was certainly the most dangerous thing we’ve done together,” Bowie notes.