In the framework of the 200 years of the anniversary of chile en nogada, Ana Teysser, gastronomic cultural researcher and traditional cook, together with other specialists, created the first Gastronomic Observatory of Traditional Chile in Nogada, which seeks to recover the knowledge and flavors of this traditional dish.
In an interview with MILLENNIUM Puebla, the also agricultural technician stressed that this first observatory arose from the need to preserve the traditional dish, its knowledge and flavors, before the distortions, innovations and atrocities of those who do not know the tradition in its preparation.
“The observatory is part of the community school of the traditional chile en nogada, a cultural and gastronomic initiative, which arises from the need to preserve the traditional dish, in the face of atrocities, distortions and treacherous innovations that do not know the tradition and arises within the framework of the 200 years of the chili or the legend of this dish ”, he emphasized.
In the absence of an original recipe for the preparation of this sought-after dish, the chronicler indicated that there is a traditional way that lives in the collective memory.
In this sense, he said that, unfortunately, the flavors and knowledge of this dish are disaggregated, because “they are like a puzzle between forced stories of myths, rituals, romanticism and many fallacious speeches.”
For this reason, he highlighted that a group of citizens concerned about preserving the traditional dish met to have the cultural and gastronomic initiative called Escuela Comunitaria del Tradicional Chile en Nogada, which not only proposes the first observatory, but also the creation of a technical standard that allows to regulate this traditional taste and flavor.
He also indicated that the formation of the first Authenticity Council Committee of this dish is also added. In the case of the community school, he explained that it is a non-formal, permanent, playful and creative space for learning this delicacy and that it seeks the education of the taste of the cultural good.
Ana Teysser clarified that the observatory was launched in July and citizens can find the information on social networks: www.chileennogada.mex.tl.
The specialist commented that there are different municipalities and regions where the dish can be tasted, such as the city of Puebla, as well as fairs and festivities in Calpan, San Nicolás de Los Ranchos and other municipalities located in the Izta-Popo region.
“The defenders of the traditional chile en nogada don’t know each other; the defenders are at different points, but there is a cultural consensus on what this food is and what it is not ”.
According to the Contemporary Cultural Council, the researcher recalled that an authentic chili en nogada is considered to be one that is made from a Creole chili known as a time chili with or without skin, stuffed with a mince of traditional fruits that make up a mosaic overflowing with nogada of fresh Castile nuts, with grains of pomegranate and sprigs of parsley.
Otherwise, it pointed out that it does not use a non-poblano creole or pirate chili and that it includes fruits such as imported pear, quince, peaches, among others, it does not obtain this distinction.
Ana Teysser stressed that there is a dish that is very distant from the tolerance of tradition, and it is the one that was made a couple of years ago by the Bankers Club of Mexico. With this dish, the cooks simulated the national flag, but it had seeds of the Castilla walnut, which is why social networks exploded: “Without a doubt it is the insignia, jewel and emblem of Puebla’s gastronomy.”
Finally, he indicated that the observatory is made up of a couple of cultural promoters from the capital city and Calpan and will participate as a jury in the Chile en Nogada contest organized by the Municipal Institute of Art and Culture of Puebla (Imacp) and the community school in the Itinerant Festival of this food.