-THE REPUBLIC OF THE FOREST. There is nothing more boring than heraldry. However, today I will start with a bit of heraldry, talking about the mural crown, that wall-shaped crown that is one of the symbols of the Spanish Republic. In principle, in heraldry, that shield is an allusion to Castile. Therefore, the Academy of History, in the 1930s, recommended not using that symbol, but rather a civic crown – a crown of laurels, although without laurels, with oak leaves and acorns; It is, come on, the crown of Zeus; and, for that reason, the golden crown of Philip, king of Macedonia and father of Alexander, found intact, spectacular, in his tomb in the 20th century. In its day, the republican authority responded to the Academy of History that calm down, that the mural crown that presides over the republican shield would not be changed for a civic crown, since its symbolic meaning was not to refer to Castile, but another. And, at this point, the republican authority closed its mouth and said nothing more, leaving in the air the object and meaning of the mural crown on the republican shield, which was a way of creating a powerful intrigue, which lasted until the 1920s, when an answer to that question finally appeared, in the sexiest gastronomy section in the world. This. And the answer is none other than the following. There it goes. The mural crown of the Republic does not allude to Castile, but is a lyricism, based on a quote from Cybele, the goddess of the fertile land, animals, mountains and, therefore, also of the walls, that mixture of beast and mountain. With that symbol, the Republic simply intended to explain that it wanted to be fertility. But not just any type of fertility, but the unstoppable, the wild, overwhelming and without instructions. The fertility of Cybele, well, is extremely different from that of other Greek divinities, who also give fertility to the theme. Like Demeter, goddess of fertility, but only that enhanced by people, through agriculture, which was what Demeter dominated. The fertility of Cybele, its fruits, on the contrary, do not require any cultivation or work. They are simple gifts, while Demeter only gave humans the learning of grain cultivation, and their constant work from dawn to dusk. The gifts of Cybele, fabulous and free, republican, do not require that form of slavery called work. They are wonders that arise in the forest, in the mountains, impossible to cultivate – or, at least, Cybele, and unlike Demeter, did not explain to us how to do it –, which usually belong to whoever finds them, whether it is a person or a wild boar. For this reason, the mushrooms are, without a doubt, Cybele’s masterpiece, and the hat that culminates the mushrooms, giving them the shape of mushrooms, is not a hat, but a crown. Mural, the seal of Cibeles, its symbol. Which indicates that what belongs to Cibeles belongs to everyone. Hello. welcome to ‘like the greeks‘, that section that talks about cooking with your hands. Today it’s all about mushrooms, and not just mushrooms, but the mushroom with the most characteristic hat – which we now know is a republican crown – which is called cep –in Catalan–, onddozuri –in Basque; The Basques are the great peninsular mushroom eaters, after, or with, the Catalans– cepe –in French; The French have understood that mushroom to extremely intimate and disturbing levels; sexual; the word cepe, It comes, by the way, from Occitan cep, which spread, due to its rotundity, towards French and Catalan. In Italian it is porcine, and its plural porcini. In Spanish, the mushroom, which had a name, no longer has one, so when that mushroom – the republican queen of autumn mushrooms – came back to life in restaurants, they called it by its scientific name, boletus, which was the horny part of his full name, Boletus Edulis. Which is very rare. Nobody calls anyone by their scientific name. Nobody says to their girlfriend: “Homo Sapiens Sapiens, wear what I bought you, I’m going to do to you what spring does to the cherry trees.” What has happened to the name of the cep in Spanish? Well, simply, due to a process of acculturation, it disappeared. That mushroom, which was eaten in large areas of the Peninsula, stopped being eaten with its emptying, with the emigration from those areas to large cities without mushroom culture, where that mushroom, and all of Cybele’s complete work, was forgotten and postponed. .
The fertility of Cibeles, its fruits, do not require cultivation or any work. They are gifts
-NOMINALIST THEORY. The taste revolution of the eighties of the 20th century, an absolute revolution in tastes – hence the name –, initially paid for, as Vázquez Montalbán pointed out, with the visa associated with the position, meant the incorporation of new foods, new forms of prepare them, new places to eat them, new ways of talking about them and – what has been said – paying for them. But it also meant, for all this, the reincorporation, the recovery of lost food, duly increased in price. Like, in some areas, mushrooms, which entered with unstoppable fury, as happened, for example, in the hospitality industry, but not in homes, in Madrid. In the nineties and early twenty-first century, mushrooms were already a gift from Cibeles that Basques and Catalans had to share with Madrid, that vacuum cleaner of people, investments and, sniff, mushrooms. The mushroom thing meant, by the way, and thanks to the concepts of supply and demand, a perceptible increase in their price in the Commonwealth peninsular setera. And that was the case of cep, a mushroom with a forgotten name, to which its previous name was definitively retired, even more so when the chefs They discovered, with some shock, that this extinct name lacked glamor and mojo enough to appear on the menu of a millionaire restaurant. To situate ourselves, one of its names, the most widespread, was pumpkin mushroom, or pumpkin, just. With that name, they must have thought, it’s not going anywhere. With that name Florentino Pérez, anyway, I would never sign you. At this point, it is worth remembering that the cep It’s a mushroom. This is, a gift from Cibeles. And, for that reason, of everyone. So I suggest you move on from the nonsense that surrounds boletus, and enter into the simple and unappealable devotion that surrounds the cep, to the onddozuri. Put on your heart the mural crown, that cockade, assault the classist and corny prisons of taste and free the pumpkin mushroom. And enjoy its uniqueness.
-THE SINGULARITY. He cep It is a rather white mushroom, with a large, wide trunk, and a striking mural cap/crown. Altogether it looks like a small tree, a bonsai made by a gnome. It is a fleshy mushroom with a great aroma. So much so that when you buy porcini and you bring them home, the kitchen is filled with the aroma of cep, which must be, you understand at that moment, the delicate aroma of Cybele’s armpit. You know you love someone by the smell of their armpit. That’s why we know we love Cybele. There are more than 20 varieties of porcini groceries. That is to say, there are many more that are not. If you do not know mushrooms exhaustively, skip picking them in the forest, because you should know that Cibeles is as generous as she is a joker. It is said that she even invented the phrase “All mushrooms are edible. “At least once.” He cep, Once it has been abandoned by Cybele in the forest and collected by a middleman, it is an expensive mushroom, but not that expensive. At the beginning of the season, of a season like this, in which it has rained and the mushroom spores have responded to Cibeles’ orders – despite the fact that the soil temperature, this July-August, has meant another record, another milestone towards safe sterility–, he cep It goes to 60 cucumbers. But it’s going down. Just today I saw them in the market, beautiful, already in their twenties. Nobody, I repeat, nobody, on the other hand, has eaten a kilo of porcini in your life. If you still find it expensive, join in. The most R&D recipes, most accurate and most attached to a certain knowledge of the mushroom’s possibilities, come from southern France. I’ll give you one. It is about the porcini à la bordelaise. They are done in a snap. Arrange in a frying pan – cut, if they are large; whole, if they are small; imagined, if they do not have them – the cepes, with oil and – oh, surprise – lemon juice. Saute covered for about 5′. AND, then, Transfer the matter to another pan, only with oil, and let them brown. When the time comes, pour the persillade –chopped garlic with chopped parsley, but sexier and in French. And to XXXX street. In Paris, the recipe is still called the same, but chopped shallots are added to the compendium (mushrooms love shallots, believe me), fried bread crumbs (not cookie flour, mind you) and chopped parsley, without garlic. It has its what. The recipe that I am giving you today is, however, even simpler, if possible. It is so simple that it seems like a first design of the cep that Cybele experienced, and that he did not adopt because it seemed too simple to him.
-THE RECIPE. It is a carpaccio of porcini. For this they will need porcini. With one mushroom, neither small nor large, they have enough for two people. Wash that mushroom. Purists defend that the cep It should not be washed, but rubbed with a cloth, like Aladdin’s lamp. When they say that, purists ignore that a forest is full of beings that do their business everywhere. And, among them, the being that disperses the most terrible depositions known after the Yeti: Homo Sapiens Sapiens. Wash the mushrooms, I insist. Subsequently, separate the hat/mural crown from the trunk, and the hairs under the hat/mural crown itself. They come out very easily. Grab a mandolin – the one for cutting vegetables, not the one for playing Fado – or your favorite knife, and cut the cep as fine as they can. Arrange those fragments on a plate. Drizzle that plate with a) a mixture of olive oil and a little lemon juice, or b), and if available, truffle-scented olive oil. Whether you choose a) or b), add some pine nuts. The porcini They love pine nuts, because they remind them of their country. And that’s it. The result is like kissing Cybele on the mouth. Enjoy the autumn. Until another.
#Cep #Onddozuri #Cèpe #Porcino #Pumpkin #Mushroom #Boletus
