“Forecasts give the jet stream safe until 10 February”, explains the Valle d’Aosta mountaineer from Nanga Parbat. “If conditions improve, but it’s difficult, we could continue”
Bad weather, the jet stream and heavy snowfall could force Hervè Barmasse and David Goettler to give up the ambitious ascent of Rupal on Nanga Parbat, the largest face in the world with its 4500 vertical development. Arriving at the first base camp in mid-December, the two mountaineers were able to enjoy favorable conditions only for a few days, during which they managed to go as far as the so-called camp 2, at an altitude of 6200.
few chances
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“To date, unfortunately, neither in the medium nor in the long term can be glimpsed the possibility that the jet stream (the fearsome air current that lashes the peaks of the 8000m peaks, ed.) Is reduced”, explains Barmasse from the base camp at an altitude of 3500 meters placed under the Schell Route. “If we decide to let the expedition come to an end, it is not because of the desire to return to Italy earlier (the return of the two mountaineers to Malpensa is scheduled for January 28, ed.) But because we want to respect the set dates. Of course, if the forecasts for the end of the month are positive, or should change (but it is unlikely, honestly), then we could think of another attempt “.
wind
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The wind that in recent days has begun to rage in the Nanga Parbat area, at speeds between 70 and 193 kilometers per hour, is safe even until 10 February. “One might ask: but how does a weather agency ‘see’ up to 10? In reality the jet stream is very predictable, there are no variables as in other cases “. In addition to the wind, very intense rainfall is expected, so weather conditions are even worsening. “For us this becomes difficult because in alpine style when you have to move you always have to do it in perfect weather, you cannot take advantage, as is done in commercial expeditions, of half a day with fixed ropes that show you the way or take you to the curtain that is already there. You have to move in good weather because you are often untied to be faster, so you always have to know exactly what awaits you above your head ”. And again: “We would not take any decision to close the expedition because it is now winter, even if it were summer the situation would be the same. It is precisely the unfavorable forecasts that do not show us, to date, a way out, a concrete hope to attempt the summit “.
January 22 – 08:09
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