Although Spain is full of places with very good wine and in some this drink has a notable weight in the history, culture and economy of the area, just take a walk through Bordeaux to understand why this city in southwestern France is known as the world capital of wine. A title that they proudly champion and that projects such as the Cité du Vin, a museum dedicated to it, and its wide gastronomic offer, help to consolidate.
But, in reality, seeing the wine glasses on the tables in the bars and on the terraces is what marks the character of this city on the banks of the Garonne. For this reason, wine can be the best common thread to explore Bordeaux and its surroundings, both for wine lovers and for those simply looking for an excuse to get to know the region.
The city of wine
Precisely this transversal proposal to please both great fans and the merely curious is the reason for being of the Cité du Vin, which – we confess – we approach with a certain skepticism. What can it contribute to those who have already visited dozens of wineries, read about wines or know by heart about fermentation, barrels and so on?
The experience is interesting and can be a good first stop and contact with the wine universe. The visit is dynamic and as short or long as one wants, although the average time is about two hours. Opened in 2016, this museum recently renewed its permanent exhibition, which occupies the entire second floor of this building of more than 13,000 square meters spread over eight floors and whose design has become one of the architectural symbols of Bordeaux.
Types of wines, production areas, the keys to production or the importance of wine throughout history are some of the issues discussed in the 18 thematic areas of this exhibition where the protagonist is wine in the world, not just the Bordeaux or the French one.
Admission costs about 17 euros and includes a glass of wine served on the top floor, with panoramic views of the city. In addition to the exhibition area and various workshops and experiences that are sold separately, a stop at its store, well stocked with accessories and wine literature, is also worth it. Also its wine cellar, with a very wide range and well-adjusted prices, especially in Bordeaux references.
Wine in Bordeaux and surroundings
After soaking up the wine culture, it is a good time to delve fully into the gastronomic offer of Bordeaux. It is certainly spacious and although it is true that the average ticket is somewhat higher than in Spain – not much if we talk about Madrid or Barcelona – there are options for almost all budgets.
The midday formula (a kind of menu of the day) is an infallible resource for eating at a good price and can be found in numerous restaurants in the city, both in the historic center and in Chartrons, one of the most recommended neighborhoods to stay.
But if we really want to make wine the protagonist, it is best to choose places where the food is almost a complement to the wine list by the glass. A very popular format and perfect for both a snack and a proper dinner.
Among the many options, two that we think are worth a visit. Le Bar à Vin is one of those pleasant surprises that one finds in what could very well be a tourist trap. In a truly impressive establishment they serve around thirty wines by the glass, with prices starting at around 4 euros and, as an option to accompany them, cheeses, pâté and some local cold cuts. It is not unusual to find a bit of a queue, but it is worth it and, above all, no terrace, the beauty is inside.
Le Sobre Chartrons is also committed to this idea of wines by the glass, although in this case with a broader gastronomic offer, a very well-stocked winery with bottles at store prices that can be bought and, paying the corkage, drunk right there and a self-service machine to try different wines. Located near the always lively promenade that follows the banks of the Garonne and not far from the photogenic Place de la Bourse, it is not a bad plan for a dinner in Bordeaux.
As always, going to the markets is also always a good idea to get to know the city. In this case, not so much for the wines, but for the atmosphere of the Capuchin Market, in one of the oldest and most popular neighborhoods in the city. Sit at the bar of Bistro Poulette and order the moules (mussels) of the day, accompanied by a generous tray of fries and a glass of house white wine is an unbeatable plan. At noon it is complicated, so it is better to get ahead of the French lunch time or try it later.
Wineries and oysters
Taking advantage of the trip to visit one of the many wineries near Bordeaux is usually a common option when visiting the city. There is no shortage of guided tours of all kinds that organize these excursions and, among other things, eliminate your own vehicle from the equation; which is always essential if it comes to trying several wines.
Saint-Emilion, about 40 kilometers from Bordeaux, is an interesting destination because it not only has numerous wineries that are part of this AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) but it is also a beautiful medieval town that is worth a walk through beyond its wines.
Choosing one or another winery will depend on many criteria, so it is best to choose if we are interested in a specific wine or, if not, let ourselves be guided by practical issues of distance, visiting hours… Unless there is a large interest in the world of wine, and beyond the history and architecture of each of them, the truth is that visits to wineries tend to be very similar to each other, so by visiting one of the great houses in the area and another smaller one we will be more than served.
Let’s not forget that if the objective is simply to try wines, the most comfortable thing is to go to some of the aforementioned places in Bordeaux where you can find dozens of references to glasses without having to move, although it is true that some of the chateaus of the most emblematic wineries are truly spectacular. Each one has its own schedules, visiting days, prices, so a little prior planning will be required if you want to do things right.
It must be taken into account that the Bordeaux wine organization system is more complex than what we are used to in Spain. That is to say, we do not talk about a Bordeaux wine as we can talk about a Rioja, but within this great wine-growing area there are five different regions – Saint Emilion is one of them – and no less than 65 AOCs that describe not only territory, but also varieties, qualities… It is a really interesting topic for those looking for complementary reading with which to prepare or accompany their trip through the area.
Beyond wine, the coastal area of Cap Ferret is also worth some time on our visit to Bordeaux. There is the famous Dune of Pilat, the highest dune in Europe. Among endless beaches usually full of surfers, people come here above all to enjoy a calmer pace than in the city and, of course, for its oysters.
The colorful wooden cabins that are scattered around this cape and the Arcachon Bay are simple beach bars where the menu is more than clear: oysters and local white wine. Because yes, Bordeaux also produces wonderful white wines that you have to try. Indeed, in the end everything here always ends up revolving around wine.
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